Patriotic Crochet Gnome

Celebrate your patriotic spirit by making this charming Patriotic Crochet Gnome! Dressed in classic Americana style, he features a bold red and white striped hat and matching pants, a deep blue coat and shoes, and is accented with tiny white star buttons for an extra festive touch.

He’s perfect for decorating your home for the 4th of July, Memorial Day, Veterans Day, or simply showing your love for the red, white, and blue all year long. He’s sure to add a whimsical, handmade touch to tiered trays, mantels, shelves, or office desks. Whether you’re a gnome collector or looking for a festive gift, this little guy is sure to bring a smile and a spark of star-spangled charm to the festivities.

Do you love his dapper style, but are looking to celebrate other seasons or holidays? This versatile gnome can be made in a variety of color combinations to match any occasion—think orange and black for Halloween, green and red for Christmas, or pastels for springtime fun. 

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Patriotic Crochet Gnome or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

This guy has been an often-requested pattern, and I’m excited to bring him to you. Honestly, the plan is to eventually design at least one gnome for each holiday, along with some additional gnomes made around special themes that I think would be fun, like fairy, garden, and the beach to name a few.

If there is a holiday or special themed gnome that you’d like to see, please leave a comment and let me know. I can’t guarantee if or when I will get to your idea, but I will add it to my list and consider it when it comes time to design a new piece. Thanks for your support and feedback!

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The Yarn

The Patriotic Crochet Gnome, as with the other gnomes on the blog, was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles. I’ve intentionally stuck with this yarn to keep the gnomes a similar size and style so the entire collection coordinates, but feel free to use whatever yarn works best for you.

It only made sense, since he is called the Patriotic Crochet Gnome, to stick with the classic red, white, and blue, but if you love his dapper style, but are looking to celebrate other seasons or holidays he could be made in a variety of color combinationsto match any occasion—think orange and black for Halloween, green and red for Christmas, or pastels for springtime fun.

Also, I chose to make him in deeper colors, but he would also look great in brighter colors. If still using Caron Simply Soft, I would recommend Color (A) Bone or Taupe (a skin tone), Color (B) Royal Blue, Color (C) Harvest Red, Color (D) White, and Color (E) Sunshine.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Patriotic Crochet Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of the Patriotic Crochet Gnome in some of the images. He was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Three, 5/8 in (16 mm) white star buttons (optional)
• Sewing Thread and Needle for stitching buttons (optional)
• Pet Slicker Brush (optional for brushing the beard)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 52 yds/47.5 m, Color (B) Dark Country Blue, used approx. 75 yds/68.5 m, Color (C) Autumn Red, used approx. 75 yds/68.5 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 75 yds/68.5 m, Color (E) Gold, used approx. 20 yds/18 m

• The miniature Patriotic Crochet Gnome shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Royale #10 thread, Natural, Color (B): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Navy, Color (C): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Cardinal Red, Color (D): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Porcelain, Color (E): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Gold Dust. The same pattern is used with a minor change: cut the strands for the beard at 3 inches (7.6 cm) and use only one star button.

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 15/16 inch (2.4 cm) in diameter.

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Patriotic Crochet Gnome measures approx. 10 inches (25.4 cm) tall. 
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Patriotic Crochet Gnome measures approx. 5 inches (12.7 cm) tall.

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in Rows, it will be noted in the pattern.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will typically be a slip stitch to help minimize the stair-step/jogging that occurs with changing colors. These sl sts are written into the pattern (it counts as the first st and should be worked into in the following round). A regular sc can be substituted if desired.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx.  – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loop only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• picot – (described below under special stitches)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease unless otherwise directed)
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tr – treble
• WS – wrong side
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed

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Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern. 

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

Picot

To create a picot

1. Ch2,
2. Sl st in the back bar of the 2nd ch from the hook. (picot complete) 

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Let’s Make Our Patriotic Crochet Gnome!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose.

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Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Switch to Color (B)  

>Design Option: Rnd 8 makes it possible to add a cuff to the sleeve. To make the Crochet Patriotic Gnome without a cuff, work Rnd 8 in the FLO instead of the BLO. In this case, no additional stitches need to be marked.

• Rnd 8: In BLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) Mark the first front loop of Rnd 7 with a separate stitch marker for later reference.

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. Continue to lightly stuff the arm as the pattern progresses, leaving the last few Rnds of the arm unstuffed so it will lie flatter against the body.

• Rnds 9-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) 
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body.

Adding the Cuff to the Sleeve

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: Using the front loops previously marked with a stitch marker in Rnd 8: With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the bottom up towards the arm, starting with a standing sc, sc in each st around. (10sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 4: Sl st in each st around. (12sts)
• Fasten off using an invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish) and weave in the ends.

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Boot and Leg (One Piece)

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The boots start by working on both sides of the ch.

• Ch 10
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 7sts, 4sc in the next st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the chain worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (28sts)
• Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times, [sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
• Rnd 4: In BLO: Sc in each st around (34sts)
• Rnd 5-6: Sc in each st around. (34sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times, [sc2tog] 2 times, [sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (28sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 2 times, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 6sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the boot, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 11-14: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 4 Rnds)

Making the Leg

Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the boot so it can’t unravel. This will be returned to momentarily.

Using Color (D)

• Rnd 15: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (15sts) (>Design Note: The first st will be a standing sc.)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)

Return to the Working Loop for the Boot

Place a locking stitch marker in the working loop of the leg so it can’t unravel. This will be returned to momentarily. 

Return to working on the boot, using the front loops of Rnd 14. 

• In the FLO: Sl st in each st around. (15sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish).

Return to the Working Loop for the Leg

>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate every 2 Rnds between Color (D) and Color (C). The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will happen mid-row to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in the round. Alterations can be made, if necessary, to ensure that the color changes are not seen at the front of the leg.  

>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each Rnd. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Add additional stuffing up to the top of the boot, but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 17: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 9sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, Switch to Color (C): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 8sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 35: Sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 7sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position. 
• Cut Color (C) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body.

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Body

>Design Note and Tip: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the nose as the pattern progresses. The first 10 Rnds will alternate every 2 Rnds between Color (D) and Color (C). There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each Rnd. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Make 1

Using Color (D) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 3: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 5: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 7: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 5 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 9: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 11: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 13: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (48sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 15: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 16: In BLO: Sc in each st around. With an additional stitch marker, mark the front loop of the 1st stitch of Rnd 15 to be returned to later when making the bottom of the jacket. (48sts) 
• Rnds 17-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds) 

Switch to Color (A) 

• Rnd 22: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 23-27: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 5 Rnds)

In the next Rnd, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 22sts, join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 22sts, join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 30-38: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 44: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Make the Bottom of the Jacket

Using Color (B)  

>Design Note: The bottom of the jacket is worked in turned rows. Turn and ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st) at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.

Find the Starting Stitch: The first and last stitches of Row 1 should be the two stitches centered under the middle of the nose. Returning to the stitch marker placed in the front loop of Rnd 15, starting with this st, count 21sts to the left and begin with this st. Make adjustments if necessary to ensure this first stitch is centered with the nose; otherwise, the bottom of the jacket will not be centered on the body. 

• Row 1: With the Gnome’s body upside down and the working loop on the hook, insert the hook through the loop from the bottom of the loop and make a standing sc, sc in each loop around. (48sts)
• Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in the next 44sts, sc2tog. (46sts)
• Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 42sts, sc2tog. (44sts)
• Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in the next 40sts, sc2tog. (42sts)
• Row 5: Sl st in each st around. (42sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Beard

Using Color (D) 

• Cut 60, 6-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
• Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Placement: On Rnd 27, place 4 loops directly under the nose and 3 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 29, place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side, and then move outward. On Rnd 31, place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
• Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.

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Need Help With How to Loop the Beard?

Image 1:  The loops are placed around one complete stitch in a row. Determine where the loop will be placed, insert the hook from the bottom of the stitch, around the back, and back up at the top of the stitch. Fold the length of yarn in half and hook it onto the hook.
Image 2: Pull the length of yarn through the stitch about halfway.
Image 3: Remove the hook and take the loop, placing it up over both of the yarn tails.
Image 4: Pull on the yarn tails at the same time to tighten and secure the loop.

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Top Hat

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts)

>Design Tip: The hat is going to begin alternating every 2 Rnds between Color (D) and Color (C). There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each Rnd. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 11: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 13: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 15: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 17: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 19: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 21: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 23: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 25: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (60sts)

Switch to Color (D)

• Rnd 27: Sl st in the next st, sc in the next 59sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• >Design Note: This tail can now be cut. Leave a longer tail to later stitch the hat to the body.

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 29: In FLO: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 19 times, sc in the next st. (80sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 20 times. (100sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 19 times, sc in the next 2sts. (120sts)
• Rnd 32: Sl st in each st around. (120sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish), and weave in the ends.

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Hat Band

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Ch 60

Place the top hat on the body so it’s pulled down, resting on the nose. Then ensure that the chain can go around the hat close to the brim with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains as needed. 

• Row 1: In the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (59sts) 

Check to see that the hat band still fits appropriately around the hat. It should be pretty taught with the ends able to touch so they can later be sewn together.

• Rows 2-3: Turn, ch 1 (doesnt’ count as a st), sc in each st across. (59sts for 2 Rnds) 
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the hat band together and stitching the band to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

• Add the Star Buttons: (optional) – Using sewing thread and a needle, evenly stitch the star buttons to the front center of the hat band (or other desired configuration). Suggested Placement: Pictured, the first button is centered on the band so it rests over the nose. A button is then stitched on either side approx. 2sts apart.

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Star

>Design Note: The front and back pieces are made separately and then stitched together to form a puffy star.

Make 2

Using Color (E)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, (hdc, dc) in the next st, (tr, picot, tr) in next st, (dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st] 5 times. (5 points)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish. If the first star, weave in the ends. If the second star, leave a long tail for stitching the stars together and attaching the star to the Gnome’s hands.

Assemble the Star

With wrong sides facing, line up the sts between the two sides of the star and stitch around the entire outer edge, lightly stuffing before fully closing. >Design Tip: To make a decorative edge on both sides of the star, when stitching, stitch only through what would have been the back loops of both stars (they now rest side by side in the middle with the WS facing). After stitching the star together, leave the remaining tail to stitch the star to the Gnome’s hands during assembly.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Patriotic Crochet Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Patriotic Gnome’s face and are facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at about Rnd 1 at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows, so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Arms: The arms are attached on either side of the body about 10-11 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side, with the top point resting at approximately Rnd 21 of the body (the same color as the arm) and angled back so the back corner rests flush at the top of the jacket bottom. The thumbs on the hands should be facing up. Look at the Patriotic Gnome from the front to ensure the arms look even before stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm.
• Hat: Pull the hat down over the body to cover the top of the nose. Using the Color (D) tail left earlier, tack the hat to the body in several places within the Color (D) stripe just above the brim. >Design Tip: Begin by weaving the tail to the RS of the hat for easier stitching.
• Hat Band: Place the hat band around the hat, resting above the brim with the stars centered with the nose. Ensuring the band is not twisted, stitch the band ends together at the back of the hat. Then, proceed to tack the band in several places along the hat to secure it.   

• Star: If using, stitch the star to the inside of the hands as if he’s holding it. Suggested Placement: Weave the yarn tail up to just under the tip of the closest point of the star and stitch this to the hand between Rnds 4 and 5, right next to the thumb. Make a couple of stitches to secure the star and make it look like it’s clasped in his hands. Then weave the tail through the star to the point on the opposite side and repeat as before to stitch the other hand to the star. Weave in the end. >Design Tip: Stitched as suggested, the star should rest below the nose, but if it happens to ride up while attached, the inside of the cuffs on each of the arms can also be tacked to the body to maintain the desired position.

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Back View

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!