Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear

Crafted with love and care, this Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear pattern is the perfect blend of charm and rustic elegance. Whether perched on a shelf, nestled in a child’s arms, or gifted to someone special, this little bear brings a cozy, heartfelt touch wherever it goes.

Its compact size makes it ideal for cuddling or display. They’re also perfect for using up scrap yarn, which ensures that no two bears are exactly alike. Even better, the legs, arms, and tail are all seamlessly joined, leaving only the muzzle and ears to be stitched on.

Whether you’re making a gift, decorating a nursery, or simply adding to your collection of cuddly creations, this bear is a sweet, handmade treasure that’s sure to warm hearts!

Their small size makes them great keychains, too!

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The Inspiration

To be honest, this design has been sitting in a WIP (work in progress) bag for some time now. Much longer than I’d like to admit, along with its small amigurumi bunny friend, which you can also find on the blog HERE. They were fully designed; I just needed to get the process pictures and everything done to make them ready to share.

Since I have close to 30 yarn WIPs, personal and professional, in crochet and knitting form, in various stages of readiness, I decided that it’s about time that my WIPs are either brought into the world or frogged (unraveled), so 2025 is helping to make that happen one project at a time.

I hope that you enjoy making your own Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear! Happy Crocheting!

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These Bear Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

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The Yarn

The largest bears in the images were made from soft tweed yarn from the Brava Tweed line by Knit Picks and WeCrochet. The tweed yarn makes each bear have a delightful texture and speckled pattern that gives it a timeless, handcrafted feel.

The Brava Tweed line from WeCrochet and Knit Picks is quickly becoming a favorite because it currently comes in 15 different colors! If you love using tweed yarn for animals as much as I do, I highly recommend that you give it a try.

The medium-sized version of the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear uses Brava Sport yarn in the colors Sienna and Almond, and Curio #10 crochet thread in Mongoose and Bare was used for the miniature version. In each instance, the same pattern is used with changes to hook and eye size. See the “Materials” section of the pattern for further details.

Realistically, this design would be beautiful in almost any style of yarn: tweed, speckled, striped, variegated, solid, and more. Because of its smaller size, it’s also perfect for using up scrap yarn.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear in some of the images. It was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

>Design Note: In the pattern and images, three different-sized bears are shown. The largest are made in worsted yarn, the medium in sport yarn, and the miniature in crochet thread. All details can be found in the materials section of the pattern.

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Safety eyes, 8 mm 
• Keychain (optional)
• Embroidery Floss Dark Brown (DMC 838)
• Embroidery Needle 
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts

• Brava Tweed (worsted 4-Medium, 97% Premium Acrylic, 3% Viscose, 218 yds/199 m, 3.5 oz/100 g), Color (A) Elderberry OR Heron OR Pumpkin Bread, used approx. 75 yds/68.5 m, Color (B) Wren, used approx. 12 yds/11 m

• The medium-sized Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear shown in some images was made using hook size B/1 (2.25) and sport weight yarn. Color (A): Brava Sport, Sienna, Color (B): Brava Sport, Almond. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 6 mm safety eyes or embroider them. 

• The miniature Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear shown in some images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Curio #10 thread, Mongoose, Color (B): Curio #10 thread, Bare. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 3.5 mm safety eyes or embroider them. 

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 1.25 inches (3 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 4 Rnds of the body measure approx. 9/16 inch (1.4 cm) in diameter.

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Largest Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear measures approx. 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) in the sitting position to the tip of the ear. 
• Using hook size B/1 (2.25 mm) and sport yarn, the Medium Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear measures approx. 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) tall. 
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear measures approx. 1.75 inches (4.4 cm) tall.

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• The yarn under method was used when designing this piece. The yarn over method can also be used, but will potentially create a slightly larger character.
• Caution! If using safety eyes, consider who will be using the item. Safety eyes are not recommended for children under three or those prone to putting things in their mouths, as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx. – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• ch – chain
• invisible finish
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(s)
• WS – wrong side
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• Some hand embroidery

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Let’s Make Our Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear!

Arms

Make 2

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (9sts)

Shape the bottom hand portion of the arm (stuff firmly, lightly, or not at all, depending on personal preference). Leave the top 3 Rnds unstuffed so they will rest closer to the body. 

• Rnds 7-8: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up with the starting st on the right edge and sc the two edges together across the top. (4sts)
• Fasten off and set aside for later.

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Legs

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The feet are worked around both sides of the foundation chain.  

• Ch 5
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st), sc in the next 2ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 2ch, 2sc in the next ch. (10sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (16sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the leg, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 3 Rnds)
• Fasten off. Mark the 3rd and 9th sts for later reference when seamlessly joining the legs to the body. Set aside for later.

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Tail

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times. (6sts)
• Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the tail and set aside for later.

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Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 6sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the ear to the head.
• >Design Note: The side of the ear with the extra 6sts is the back of the ear. Press the ear flat so the front 6sts and the back 6sts are touching. Set aside for later. 

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Muzzle and Embroidered Nose

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in next 3sts, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible join (alternatively, sl st to the first st and fasten off), leaving a long tail for stitching the muzzle to the head. Weave in the starting tail.

Embroidering the Nose

• Using 6 strands of embroidery floss and an embroidery needle, hand embroider a nose over Rnd 2, for about the length of 3-4sts, at the top of the muzzle, using stitches that are close to each other, even overlapping. >Design Tip: Stitch over the entire length as many times as desired for a more pronounced nose. Then stitch a straight line from the bottom of the muzzle between Rnds 1 and 2 up to the bottom middle of the stitched nose. For a more distinct line, stitch over this same line two more times.

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Body

>Design Note: The body is worked from the bottom to the top of the head in one piece, seamlessly joining the legs, tail, and arms as the pattern progresses. The muzzle and ears should be hand-stitched to the body when instructed.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)

In the next Rnd, the bottom of the legs and tail are added seamlessly to the body.

>Design Tip: If helpful, mark sts 6, 10, 12, 16, 22, and 24 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the bottom of the legs and the tail in Rnd 5. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 5: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, join the bottom left leg to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the 3rd st of the leg from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops] 5 times (>Design Note: Joining the leg begins and ends with a previously marked stitch), on the body: 2sc in the next st, join the bottom right leg to the body: repeat the same instructions for joining the bottom left leg to the body, on the body: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, join the bottom of the tail to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into any st of the tail st from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops] 3 times. (29sts)

In the next Rnd, the tops of the legs and tail are added seamlessly to the body. The remaining 5sts of each leg and 3sts for the tail will be used. If any additional stuffing is needed in the legs or tail, add it now.

>Design Tip: If it’s helpful, mark sts 8, 12, 15, 19, 27, and 29 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the top of the legs and the tail in Rnd 6. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, join the top left leg to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the leg st closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the leg and body sts together for the next 4sts, on the body: 2sc in th next st, sc in the next st, join the top right leg to the body: repeat the same instructions for joining the top left leg to the body, on the body: sc in the next 7sts, join the top of the tail to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the tail st closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops] 3 times. (30sts)
• Rnds 7-11: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)

In the next Rnd, the arms are added seamlessly to the body.  

>Design Tip: If helpful, mark sts 5, 8, 17, and 20 on the body with stitch markers to help when joining the arms in Rnd 13. Each number corresponds with the first and last st used for the appendage being joined. These markers can be removed once the limb is joined.

• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, join the left arm to the body: [with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the st at either edge of one of the arm, now insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops] 4 times, on the body: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, join the right arm to the body: repeat the same instructions used for joining the left arm to the body, on the body: sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts. (18sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (15sts)

The next section moves into making the head. >Design Tip: Wait to stuff the head until the eyes and muzzle are added.

• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (18sts) 
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)  
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (40sts) 
• Rnds 21-25: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (36sts) 
• Rnd 27: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (30sts) 

Stitch the muzzle and insert the safety eyes. The suggested placement for the muzzle is centered on the face, with the top at approx. Rnd 25 and the bottom at approx. Rnd 19. The eyes are inserted, resting next to the top of the muzzle between Rnds 25 and 26, approx. 5sts apart. 

• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)  
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear and stitch securely into place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Ears: Center the ears at the top of the head, approx. 4sts back from the eyes, with the bottom of the ear at approx. Rnd 26 and the top at approx. Rnd 31 of the body. >Design Tip: Use the extra length of tail from stitching the ears to tack the arms (optional,see tacking the arms below). In this case, once the ear is attached, weave the tail down the body to tack the arm.
• Tacking the Arms: (Optional) The arms may rise from the body more than desired. If this is the case, use a length of Color (A) and a tapestry needle to tack them to the body on the underside of each piece, a few Rnds from the top of the arm.

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Keychain Loop

>Design Note: The hanging loop is optional and can be as long or as short as desired. Simply add or remove the desired number of chains. As written, once formed, the loop is approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) long, the chosen keyring adds additional height.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Ch 12
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (11sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the hanging loop to the body. Weave in the starting tail.
• Fold the keychain loop in half so the short ends touch.
• Put the keychain into the fold.
• Using the tail and a tapestry needle, whip-stitch the ends together.
• Securely stitch the loop to the top center of the bear’s head and weave in the end.

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Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!