Crochet Devil Boy Gnome

This mischievous little Crochet Devil Boy Gnome is ready to add some fiery charm to your collection! Dressed in bold red and black, you’ll also love that he comes complete with details like horns, wings, a pointed tail, a pitchfork, and even little hooves that make him delightfully devilish.

His long beard and whimsical design help to bring the perfect balance of spooky and playful, making him a fun decoration for Halloween, themed displays, or as a quirky gift for gnome lovers. Whether displayed on a shelf, desk, or mantel, he’s sure to spark conversation and bring a smile.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Devil Boy Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

For some time now, I have received several requests for an angel gnome to be added to the growing collection of gnomes here on the blog. And while this hasn’t quite happened yet (wink, wink, nudge, nudge….please continue to be patient, the request is coming), I couldn’t stop thinking that it would be so fun to have both an angel and a devil in the collection. You know, to represent an angel on one shoulder and a devil on the other.

Now, while angels aren’t necessarily only for Christmas, I thought it more appropriate to release a devil gnome pattern closer to Halloween and an angel gnome pattern closer to Christmas. So here he is in all his mischievous, trouble-making glory, the Crochet Devil Boy Gnome!

He features many details like horns, a pointed tail, and hooves that make him devilishly handsome. But I couldn’t stop there. I decided to take it a little further and add even more details like wings and a pitchfork. He looks cute and devilish without these last two options, but I thought they helped add even more to his devilish charm and possibilities. I hope that you enjoy the various options for making him, too.

Now I’d best be finishing up that angel gnome!

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Sneak Peek!

While making the Crochet Devil Boy, I couldn’t help but realize how easy it would be to modify the design slightly to create a Devil Girl Gnome version. I hope that you enjoy this option as well.

That said, I have a few finishing touches to add to her blog post before she makes her big debut on the blog, but she is available now as part of the Devil Gnome PDF in my shops if you’d like to start on her now. I’ve put the three patterns together at a singular price, so it includes the boy, the girl, and the pitchfork. Or stay tuned, she’ll be coming to the blog soon!

UPDATE: You can now find her on the blog HERE!

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The Yarn

The Crochet Devil Boy Gnome was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles.

I have been using this yarn for years, and while it does have a tendency to split at times, I’ve become accustomed to its features and enjoy using it. I love that it is a lighter worsted yarn and comes in such a broad color selection. Cotton yarn can give a greater stitch definition, but I don’t mind having a bit of yarn halo in my creations. It makes them feel a bit warm, handmade, textured, and inviting.

That said, there are more yarns that I love to use, but I will continue to design my gnomes with Caron Simply Soft as long as it continues to be made for the reasons given above, and keeping in the same line of yarn, I feel, gives them a cohesive appearance.

For the Crochet Devil Boy Gnome, I mostly stuck with the solid color options, but per my usual design preference, I did use charcoal in place of black. It is always my preference over stark black. The charcoal color is also a heather version of the yarn, so it adds additional texture to the beard (and other “black” pieces) without more work. Love this! That said, Black is also a great option.

The red I used is Autumn Red, which is a deeper shade. If you want to go a bit brighter, then Harvest Red is a great option as well. The Simply Soft Solid line does have another red, called Red, but it’s quite bright. The final would not be my choice; if you love it, go for it.

For the skin tone, I used the color Bone. It contrasted well with the black and red. If a brown is wanted, I would suggest the color Taupe. A black nose and a black beard may blend too much, but with this in mind, it could definitely work. For greater contrast here, maybe use Black for the skin tone and Charcoal Heather for the beard.

Additional Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Devil Boy Gnome; however, please note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, it should work fine as well. You can see the miniature version in some of the images. He was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Pipe cleaners, 1 red (for the tail) and 2 black (for the pitchfork)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Pet Slicker Brush (optional for brushing the beard)
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 15 yds/15 m, Color (B) Autumn Red, used approx. 160 yds/146 m
• Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 85 yds/78 m

• The miniature Crochet Devil Gnome shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Royal #10 thread, Natural, Color (B): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Cardinal Red, and Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Coal Black. The same pattern is used with minor changes: use a single length of pipe cleaner in the tail and pitchfork, and the beard strands are cut at 3 inches (7.6 cm).

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 15/16 inch (2.4 cm) in diameter.

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Crochet Devil Gnome measures approx. 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall, including the hat. 
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Crochet Devil Gnome measures approx. 6 inches (15 cm) tall, including the hat. (See the Materials section for more details.)

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. 
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• For more details about making the Miniature Crochet Devil Gnome, see the Materials section.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx. – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loop only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch(s) – chain(s)
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• invisible finish
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• rep – repeat
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use invisible decrease unless otherwise directed)
• sc3tog – single crochet 3 stitches together (described below under special stitches)
• sk – skip
• sl st – slip stitch
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tog. – together
• WS – wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed

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Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern. 

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

Sc3tog: Single crochet 3sts together

To create a sc3tog

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Insert hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook),
2. Insert hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Insert hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (sc3tog completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Devil Boy Gnome!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the nose.

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Tail

>Design Note: The tail is made up of two pieces: the point and the tail length. These are sewn together and then later seamlessly attached to the body.

Point of the Tail

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in MR. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (24sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Length of the Tail

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnds 2-25: Sc in each st around. (6sts for 24 Rnds) 
• Fasten off.
• Cut the red pipe cleaner to be twice the length of the tail. Fold it in half and insert it into the tube. The pipe cleaner should be flush with the tube (be careful not to cut the yarn when trimming!).

Tail Assembly

• Flatten the point so the yarn tail is at one edge of the point.
• Insert the closed end of the length of tail into the tail point, making sure that it’s centered. >Design Note: The open end will be used to seamlessly attach the tail to the body, so it’s important to use the closed end.
• Using the yarn tail from the point and a tapestry needle, whip stitch the edges of one side of the point together. When an edge meets the tail length, stitch the point to the tail length. Then insert the needle through to the other side and attach this edge to the tail length as well. Then continue to seam the two edges of the point together on the opposite side.

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Body

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the tail and nose as the pattern progresses.

Make 1

Using Color (B) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)

In the next two Rnds, the tail is added seamlessly to the body. 

Prepping the Tail for Joining. The tail consists of 6sts, three of which will be used to join the bottom of the tail, and three to join the top. With the point of the tail lying flat, identify the three bottom stitches in preparation for joining. The remaining 3sts will be used for joining the top of the tail. (In the images, the bottom sts are marked in yellow and the top sts in blue for reference. There is no need to add stitch markers unless it is helpful.) >Design Note: Really, at this point, either set of sts can be the top or bottom, just don’t mix the sets, otherwise the tail will be twisted, but even then there’s a pipe cleaner in it, so it can be twisted and shaped some after joining (so don’t stress joining it too much). Also note that, depending on how the point was stitched to the length of tail, the positioning of your yarn tail may be in a different spot than in the provided images.

• Rnd 9: Join the bottom of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the st on the right (from the bottom sts determined above) from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the Rnd), continue to join the tail and body sts tog. for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 45sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 10: Join the top of the tail to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next unworked st on the tail closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the tail, yo, pull through both loops (remember to mark this as the first st of the Rnd), continue to join the tail and body sts tog. for the next 2sts, on the body: sc in the next 45sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 11-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 12 Rnds)

In the next two Rnds, the nose is added seamlessly to the body. 

• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 25sts, join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog. for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 25sts, join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog. for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds) 

Firmly stuff and shape the body, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching through FLO until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.

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Beard

Using Color (C) 

• Cut 60, 6-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
• Holding two strands tog., loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Placement: On Rnd 21, place 4 loops directly under the nose and 3 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23, place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side, and then move outward. On Rnd 25, place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
• Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.

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Need Help With Looping the Beard?

Image 1:  The loops are placed around one complete stitch in a row. Determine where the loop will be placed, insert the hook from the bottom of the stitch, around the back, and back up at the top of the stitch. Fold the length of yarn in half and hook it onto the hook.
Image 2: Pull the length of yarn through the stitch about halfway.
Image 3: Remove the hook and take the loop, placing it up over both of the yarn tails.
Image 4: Pull on the yarn tails at the same time to tighten and secure the loop.

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Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts). 
• Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts) 

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. 

Switch to Color (B) 

• Rnd 8: In FLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts) 
• Rnds 9-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) 

Lightly stuff the arm, leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed tog. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges tog. across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body.

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Horns

Make 2

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 4sc in MR. (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook. (4sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st. (5sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (6sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st. (7sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (9sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (11sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st. (13sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st. (15sts)
• Fasten off using the invisible finish, leaving a long tail for stitching the horn to the body. 
• Firmly stuff and shape the horn, leaving approx. the first 5 Rnds unstuffed so it bends better.

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Hoof and Leg (One Piece)

>Design Note: The leg begins with making the hoof and progresses up the leg. 

Make 2

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (13sts)

Switch to Color (B)

• Rnd 11: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 12sts. (13sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (13sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hoof portion, then leave the remaining portion of the leg unstuffed. 

Shape the Hoof (optional): Using a length of Color (C) and a tapestry needle, in the front center of the foot, make a couple of vertical stitches in the same place, running from between Rnd 2 and 3 to between Rnd 8 and 9. Pull the stitches taught each time to shape the cloven hoof and secure it once the desired shape is achieved. If preferred, forming the hoof can also be done once the leg is complete.

• Rnds 14-31: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 18 Rnds) 
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (2sts)
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the hoof facing forward. The 2sts worked in Rnd 32 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed tog. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges tog. across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body.

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Wings

Optional – The Crochet Devil Gnome is cute with or without his wings.

Make 2

>Design Note: In the wing pattern, there will be parts where it says “In BLO/In FLO.” When working the right wing, work In BLO for the rest of the row, and when working the left wing, work In FLO for the rest of the row. This will leave small, detailed ridges in the pattern. Also, note that when working In FLO, the ridges will show at the back of the work, but when stitched on the body, they will face forward. 

>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease when working in rows.

Using Color (C)

• Ch 24
• Row 1: In the back bars of the ch: Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, dc in the next 8ch, hdc in the next 3ch, sc3tog, hdc in the next 7ch. (21sts) 
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in the next 6sts, sc3tog, hdc in the next 3sts, dc in the next 6sts, leave the last 3sts unworked, ch 3 (count as sts). (19sts)
• Row 3: Turn, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, In BLO/In FLO: hdc in the next 3sts, dc in the next 5sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 5sts. (16sts)
• Row 4: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 3sts, dc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch 3 (count as sts). (16sts)
• Row 5: Turn, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, In BLO/In FLO: hdc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (13sts)
• Row 6: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in the next st, sc3tog, sc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 2sts, dc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 2sts unworked, ch 3 (count as sts). (12sts)
• Row 7: Turn, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, In BLO/In FLO: sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (10sts)

 Create a Sewing Tab for the Wing

>Design Note: The sewing tab is created across the flat edge, along the ends of the rows.

• Row 8: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), place 7sc across the edge of Rows 1-7. (7sts)
• Rows 9-10: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. (7sts for 2 Rows)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the wing to the body. Weave in the starting tail. Set aside for later.

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Hat

>Design Note: The hat is made from the top down to the brim.

Make 1

Using Color (B) 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
• Rnd 21: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in the next 12sts, ch 10, skip 10sts, sc in the next 5sts, ch 10, skip 10sts, sc in the next 11sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 31: Sc in the next 12sts, 11sc in the ch 10 space, sc in the next 5sts, 11sc in the ch 10 space, sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st. (51sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (57sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 38: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)
• Rnd 40: Sc in each st around. (63sts)
• Rnd 41: Sl st in each st around. (63sts) >Design Tip: The sl st adds a nice edge to the brim but will tighten the brim’s edge, so make sure not to sl st too tightly. It may help to go up a hook size if the edge is fitting too tightly over the body.
• Fasten off using the invisible finish. If tacking the hat to the body so it can’t be removed, leave a long tail for stitching it to the body; otherwise, weave in the end.

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Pitchfork

Optional

Using Color (C), create one pitchfork from the pattern found HERE.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Devil Gnome and stitch securely in place. 

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Hat and Horns: Pull the hat in place, down over the nose. Then, position and pin the horns so that they are centered in the holes. The hat can then be removed if it’s easier to stitch the horns, and it can be returned once finished. Wait to tack the hat to the body until all other pieces are stitched, just in case it’s easier to reach some of the stitches.

•  Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Devil Gnome’s face and are facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at approx. Rnd 1 at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows, so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

• Arms: Making sure that the thumbs are facing upward, place the arms on either side of the body with the top of the arm touching the bottom edge of the hat (at approx. Rnd 20 of the body and the bottom at approx. Rnd 14), sitting approx. 5sts away from the edge of the beard. Pictured, the arms are also angled downward a bit, so the top back of the arm is positioned at a bit of a diagonal. Make sure to look at the Devil Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before stitching. Also, if using the pitchfork, double-check to make sure that the arms are far enough forward to be able to hold it. Stitch the arms to the body along the top of the arm.

• Wings (optional): The wings are centered at the back of the body over the tail. To make the top point of the wing sit at the uppermost part of the wing once attached, stitch the tabs with the tops touching just below the hat and the bottoms approx. 5sts apart, forming a downward V. Another option: If the tabs are stitched side by side, centered at the back, the wings form more of a downward L shape. Once the desired placement is achieved, stitch all around the rectangular stitching tab to secure the wings to the body.
• Hat: Invisibly tack the hat in place near the brim in several places to secure it. 

• Pitchfork (optional): Stitch the top of the pitchfork just behind the thumb on the right hand at the underpart of the bottom tine in the crook where it meets the handle and the base of the pitchfork over approx. Rnds 2-4 to the underside of the left hand. >Design Option: The pitchfork can also lean in the opposite direction or be stitched to just one hand.

Reach Out, Share, and Follow Along!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!