Crochet Angel Gnome

Three regular-sized Crochet Angel Gnomes in white and gold, one with brown curls, one with yellow, and one with braids and a miniature with brown curls, sit in a row surrounded by balls of yarn and other rustic decor items.

Bring a touch of heavenly charm to your handmade gnome collection with this Crochet Angel Gnome pattern! Dressed in a white gown and a matching hat, each adorned with touches of gold accents, she radiates peace and joy.

Choose between braids or curls for a personalized touch, making her uniquely yours, and then complete her angelic look with a golden halo resting over her hat.

The Crochet Angel Gnome is perfect for Christmas decor, gifts, or year-round inspiration. She’ll add a cozy and divine touch to any space.

A miniature Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with brown skin and curls sits in the palm of a woman's hand on a wooden background.

When made in size 10 crochet thread, she is the perfect ornament size, too (see the Materials section for more details).

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Angel Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

A Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with yellow curls sits on an overturned yellow ceramic bowl surrounded by balls of yarn and other decor items.

Already Have Something on Your Hook?

PIN the Pattern for Later!

Prefer a Printable, Ad-Free PDF?

SHOP ON RAVELRY

SHOP ON ETSY

SHOP ON AMIGURUMI.COM

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Please see the disclosure page if you would like further details.

The Inspiration

A Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with brown curls sits on a wooden bench surrounded by balls of yarn and other decor items.

For the past four years, my daughter has had the chance to dance in the Nutcracker with her ballet studio. The first year she was an angel, the second a candy cane, the third a soldier, and this year she will be a maid.

Three crocheted Nutcracker Gnomes sit together on stacks of books surrounded by Christmas paraphernalia.

The very first year, I asked her if she would like a nutcracker or an angel in remembrance of her accomplishment. She chose a nutcracker, and the Nutcracker Gnomes were introduced to the crochet world with one specifically made for her to put on her shelf.

When I mentioned something to the crochet group about this choice, I received a lot of feedback that an angel would also be appreciated. And I’ve continued to receive requests over the years, so I’m now very excited to present the Crochet Angel Gnome for your crocheting pleasure!

And my daughter is now also excited to have an angel as well, but I may have started something; she’s now made some very blatant hints requesting other Nutcracker-themed gnomes. I do think it would be fun, so they’re added to the list I keep for design ideas.

If you ever have a request, feel free to leave it in the comments or send me an email. I don’t guarantee that I will design your request, but I will add it to my list of possibilities. If multiple people are requesting it, it tends to get bumped up on my list, too, just like the angel.

A Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with yellow curls sits next to a Crochet Devil Gnome in red and black on a wooden bench with white and gold decor on the side with the angel and red and black on the side with the devil.

Did you know that the Crochet Angel Gnome also has a friend to pair with her? Well, they’re actually quite the opposites, but when I started designing the Angel Gnome, I decided a Devil Gnome was also needed. I hope that you enjoy making either one or both. Happy Crocheting!

PIN the Pattern For Later!

Collage images of the Crochet Angel Gnome. Text overlay, "Crochet Angel Gnome, Free Crochet Pattern, JenHayesCreaions.com."

These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

A white and a brown Crochet Santa Gnome sitting beside each other on a wooden mantel surrounded by pine garland and rustic packages gifts. — Santa Gnome

Three crocheted girl gnomes in various styles sitting on overturned ceramic bowls surrounded by crochet paraphernalia, plants, and other home decor. — Santa Gnome

The Yarn

Three Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold, one with brown curls, one with yellow, and one with braids sit on ceramic and wooden bowls surrounded by balls of yarn and other decor items. A miniature version sitting next to them.

The Crochet Angel Gnomes were made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles.

Because I tend to avoid either stark white or black yarn when designing (and crocheting in general), I used the color Off White for the majority of the design with accents in the color Gold.

Of course, a regular white could also be used if preferred. I didn’t get to making one, but I thought it could also be fun to use the Caron Simply Soft Party yarn in the color Snow Sparkle for the white. It is more of a regular white that also has a thread of sparkle woven in it. A sparkly angel sounds fantastic to me. At some point, I do think I need to make one. If you try it, I’d love to see.

The color Gold is used for all the accents, but yellow could work well for this too.

Two Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold, one with yellow curls and one with braids, sit on a overturned yellow ceramic bowls on a wooden background.

There are two skin tones that I like most in the Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft line, Taupe for a brown skin and Bone for lighter skin. Both of these options can be seen in the images.

When making the hair, I used the color Taupe for the angel with brown curls, and Sunshine for the yellow curls. Having made the brown skinned angel in Taupe, when I went to do her hair, I was honestly at a momentary loss of what to do. I didn’t want to make the hair Taupe, and the other browns in the Simply Soft Line (Chocolate and Sienna), while beautiful colors, didn’t seem quite right either. I also considered the Caron Simply Soft Taupe Tweeds yarn, which is the taupe color with flecks of black and tan, but again, it was too much taupe on taupe for me.

That’s when I saw the Caron Simply Soft Speckle in my stash in the color Honeycomb Speckle. The tannish yellow with brown, gold, and yellow flecks, I thought, could go well against the taupe skin. I still probably would have preferred another brown, but until I design my own line of yarn, I may not have everything I prefer, and I think she turned out great.

I’m excited to see what colors you’ll use for your angels. They could, of course, be made in any color you desire. I thought pastels could be fun too, but at some point, I have to stop making more options and get the pattern out for you to make too. I’m excited to see what you’ll do!

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Angel Girl Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

A large and a miniature version of the Crochet Angel Gnome sit in a wooden basket, the large with braids, the small with curls, surrounded by balls of yarn and decor items.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. The miniature version of the Crochet Angel Gnome shown in some of the images was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

Two larger and one miniature crochet angel gnomes sit amongst clouds of poly-fil with the Poly-fil bag and other decor items in the background.

A special thank you goes out to Farifield World, the makers of Poly-fil and other great products, who provided the fiberfill for this project. This is the brand I use in all my amigurumi designs, so I’m glad to collaborate with them from time to time. Using the Poly-fil for the clouds, I thought, was a fun touch too!

The Pattern

Two Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold, one with brown curls and one with yellow, sit on a wooden bench surrounded by balls of yarn and other decor items.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Stuffing
Pins
Tapestry Needle
Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, used approx. 63 yds/58 m, Color (B) Off White, used approx. 147 yds/134 m, Color (C) Gold, used approx. 42 yds/38 m, Color (D – for the hair) Sunshine OR Taupe, used approx. 32 yds/29 m OR see Color (D) below
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Speckle (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 235 yds/215 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (D – for the hair) Honeycomb, used approx. 19 yds/17 m OR see Color (D) above

A miniature Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with brown skin and curls sits in the palm of a woman's hand with yarn and other decor items blurred in the background.

The miniature Crochet Angel Gnome shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Curio #10 thread, Hawk, Mongoose, Color (B): Curio #10 thread, Hawk, Bare, Color (C): Curio #10 thread, Canary, Color (D): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Fudge. The same pattern is used.

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.
Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 15/16 inch (2.4 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Crochet Angel Girl Gnome measures approx. 13 inches (33 cm) in the sitting position.
Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Crochet Angel Girl Gnome measures approx. 5.5 inches (14 cm) in the sitting position. (See the Materials section for more details.)

Design Notes

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in joined Rnds or in Rows, it will be noted in the pattern.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.

A miniature crochet angel gnome with brown skin and curls dressed in white with gold accents sits on a wooden table between two gold balls of yarn with decor items blurred in the background.

For more details about making the Miniature Crochet Angel Gnome, see the Materials section.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

approx. – approximately
back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
BLO – work in the back loop only
bo – bobble (3dcbo and 4dcbo described below under special stitches)
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
FLO – work in the front loop only
hdc – half double crochet
invisible finish
MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
Rnd(s) – round(s)
Row(s) – row(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
sl st – slip stitch
standing sc – standing single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog. – together
WS – wrong side
[ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): Two different types of bobbles are used in the pattern.

To create a 3dcbo

A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern when making the hands.

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

A 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern when making the body.

To create a 4dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1-9. Follow steps 1-9 for making the 3dcbo, then continue with 10-13 below.
10. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
11. Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook),
12. Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
13. Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

Prefer a Printable, Ad-Free PDF?

Visit My Shops!

SHOP ON RAVELRY

SHOP ON ETSY

SHOP ON AMIGURUMI.COM

Save This Pattern for Later!

PIN the Pattern for Later!

Let’s Make Our Crochet Angel Gnome!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten off.
Firmly stuff and shape the nose.

Hand and Arm

Two tan crocheted hands with flowing white sleeved arms with gold accents.

Make 2

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 3dcbo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts).
Rnds 7-8: Sc in each st around. (10sts for 2 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand.

Switch to Color (C)

Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
Rnd 10: In BLO: Sc in each st around. Mark the front loop of the first stitch to return to later when making the cuff. (12sts)

Switch to Color (B)

Rnd 11: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
Rnds 12-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 6 Rnds)
Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Lightly stuff the arm, leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed tog. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges tog. across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body.

Making the Cuff

Crochet hook inserted into the stitch on the arm to create the belled sleeve.

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: For Rnd 1, insert the hook into the loop (marked previously) from the top of the loop towards the hand. The first st is a standing sc.

Rnd 1: Working in the front loops of Rnd 9: Leaving a starting tail long enough to weave in, sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (16sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times. (20sts)
Rnd 4: Sl st in each st around. (20sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish. Weave in the ends.

Feet

Make 2

>Design Note: The feet begin by working on both sides of the foundation ch.

Using Color (A)

Ch 9
Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st), sc in the next 6sts, 4sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6sts, 3sc in the next st. (18sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 3sts. (28sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the next 8sts, hdc in the next 8sts, sc in the next 12sts. (28sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 8sts. (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (20sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 4 times. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

Rnd 8: In FLO: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot portion, then leave the remaining portion of the leg unstuffed.

Switch to Color (B)

Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
Rnds 11-31: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 21 Rnds)
Rnd 32: Sc in the next 2sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (2sts) This should position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add or remove sts to obtain the needed position.
Press the tube flat so the top edges line up horizontally with the foot facing forward and sc the two edges tog. across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body.

Body

Make 1

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the nose as the pattern progresses.

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnds 9-11: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C) >Design Note: There is no need to cut Color (B), simply drop it and pick it back up for Rnd 14.

Rnd 12: In BLO: Sc in each st around. With an additional stitch marker, mark the front loop of the 1st st of Rnd 11 to be returned to later when making the bottom of the gown. (48sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc in the next st, 4dcbo in the next st, sc in the next st] 16 times. (48sts) >Design Note: It may be necessary to push the bobbles forward so they puff outward on the RS.

Switch to Color (B)

Rnds 14-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 6 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

Rnd 20: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next two Rnds, the nose is added seamlessly to the body.

A crochet hook is inserted into the first stitches to seam the bottom of the nose to the body of the Crochet Angel Gnome and then another pictures shows the bottom of the nose fully attached. — **Image Left:** The hook is inserted to join the bottom of the nose to the body (See Rnd 23).
**Image Right:** The bottom of the nose is fully joined to the body.

Rnd 23: Sc in the next 25sts, join the bottom of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog. for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)

A crochet hook is inserted into the first stitches to seam the top of the nose to the body of the Crochet Angel Gnome and then another pictures shows the top of the nose fully attached. — **Image Left:** The hook is inserted to join the top of the nose to the body (See Rnd 24).
**Image Right:** The top of the nose is fully joined to the body.

Rnd 24: Sc in the next 25sts, join the top of the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog. for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)
Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

Bottom of the Gown

>Design Note: The skirt is worked in joined Rnds. The ch(s) at the beginning of the Rnd and the sl st to join at the end do not count as a st. The first st of the next Rnd is always worked in the same st as the sl st.

Using Color (B)

Crochet hook inserted into the stitch on the body to create the bottom of the gown.

>Design Note: For Rnd 1, insert the hook into the loop (marked previously) on the body from the top of the loop towards the bottom of the body. The first stitch is a standing sc.

Rnd 1: Working in the front loops of Rnd 11: Leaving a starting tail long enough to weave in, [sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 12 times. (60sts)
Rnd 2: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 2, [dc in the next 4sts, 2dc in the next st] 12 times. (72sts)
Rnd 3: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 2, dc in each st around. (72sts)
Rnd 4: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 2, [dc in the next 5sts, 2dc in the next st] 12 times. (84sts)

Switch to Color (C) >Design Tip: There is no need to cut Color (B). Drop and pick it back up again when needed.

Rnd 5: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 1, sc in each st around. (84sts)

Switch to Color (B)

Rnd 6: Sl st to the first st to join, ch 1, [sc in the next st, 2hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st] 21 times. (84sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish and weave in the ends.

Hair

>Design Note: There are two options for the hair: braids or curls. Only one option is needed.

Braids

Speckled tan, yellow, and brown crocheted pieces, one braided and wrapped in gold and the other with three strands yet to be braided, sitting on a wooden background.

Make 2

>Design Note: The braid is made as one piece, worked in turned rows. Once constructed, it will have a top base point (2sts in length) which will be stitched to the body, and three separate strands that will be used to create the braid.

Using Color (D)

Ch 35
Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (34sts)
Row 2: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
Row 3: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 2. (34sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
Row 5: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 4. (34sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the braid to the body. Weave in the starting tail.
Braid the three strands together. Using a long length of Color (C), tack and wrap the base of the braid, leaving about a 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) of the three braided strands sticking out from the bottom of the wrap. Use a tapestry needle to weave the end back into the back side of the wrapping several times to secure it, then fasten off.

>Design Options: The braids could also be tied together using ribbon, a single piece of yarn, or a string tied in a bow.

Curly Hair

Two crocheted clusters each with three curls in brown sitting on a wooden background.

Make 2

>Design Note: The curly hair is made as one piece, worked in turned rows. Once constructed, it will have a top base point (2sts in length) that will be stitched to the body, and three separate strands of curls.

Using Color (D)

Ch 34
Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (66sts)
Row 2: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
Row 3: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 2. (66sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 2sts, ch 33. (35sts)
Row 5: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, twist the work at the top base point to be able to sc in the 2sts from Row 4. (66sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the curls to the body. Weave in the starting tail.

Hat

Cone hat in off white with a slight frilly brim with a gold accented row above this.

Make 1

>Design Note: The hat is made from the top down to the brim.

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 2sts. (18sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 3sts. (24sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (30sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
Rnd 21: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (36sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)
Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
Rnd 29: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (48sts)
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (54sts)
Rnd 34: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
Rnd 36: Sc in each st around. (57sts)
Rnd 37: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, sc in the next 9sts. (60sts)
Rnd 38: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)

Switch to Color (C) >Design Tip: There is no need to cut Color (B). Drop and pick it back up again when needed.

Rnd 40: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 61sts, 2sc in the next st. (64sts)

Switch to Color (B)

Rnd 41: In FLO: [Sc in the next st, 2hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st] 21 times. (84sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish, leaving a long tail to stitch the hat to the body. Weave the tail to the row above Color (C) in preparation for later stitching the hat to the body. Weave in the other ends.

Halo

Make 1

Using Color (C)

Ch 50
Rnd 1: Making sure the ch is not twisted, sl st to the first st to form a ring, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in the same st and in each st around. (50sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, sc in the same st and in each st around. (50sts)
Sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off, leaving an extra-long tail for forming the halo and stitching it to the hat. The starting tail can be woven in or sandwiched and stitched over when forming the halo.

Forming the Halo

A tapestry needle is threaded and sticking through both sides of a crocheted loop, forming a gold halo.

The halo is formed by folding the ring in half lengthwise with WS tog, and using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, evenly stitch the two edges tog. all the way around. It’s likely easiest to fold the ring as the sts are made rather than all at once. Make sure not to twist the ring while stitching. Secure the stitching and leave the tail for later stitching the halo to the hat during assembly.

Wings

Make 2

>Design Notes: The wings begin by working on both sides of the foundation ch and are then worked in turned rows. When In FLO or In BLO are noted, it should be carried out through the entire row.

>Design Option: Working in the FLO/BLO will create decorative ridges on one side of the wing. If no ridges are desired, work through both loops throughout.

Using Color (C)

Ch 10
Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 7sts, 5sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6sts, leave the last 2sts unworked. (19sts)
Row 2: In FLO: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 9sts, ch 3 (count as sts here and throughout). (25sts)
Row 3: Turn, In BLO: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next 4sts, sc in the next 6sts, leave the last 2sts unworked. (19sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch 1, In FLO: sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 12sts, ch 3. (32sts)
Row 5: Turn, In BLO: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next 14sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts, leave the last 2sts unworked. (31sts)
Row 6: Turn, ch 1, In FLO: sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 2 times, sl st in the next 2sts. (18sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the wing to the body during assembly. Weave in the starting tail.
The right wing is now made. To make the left wing, follow the same instructions, but where it says to work BLO work FLO, and where it says to work FLO work BLO.
If needed, the wings can be blocked to help them keep their shape.

Assembly

Front view of the Crochet Angel Gnome all pinned together and ready for stitching.

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Angel Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

Bottom view of the Crochet Angel Gnome with the legs pinned on with yellow quilting pins.

Legs: Ensuring that they are centered with the Angel Gnome’s face and are facing forward, pin the legs side by side with the top of the leg at approx. Rnd 1 at the front of the body. Attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a couple of rows, so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

The Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold with brown curls pinned to the head, ready for stitching.

Braids/Curls: The braids/curls can be placed as desired in the front of the body, at any length desired. As pictured, the top of the hair is placed at approx. Rnd 30-31 of the body (approx. 10-11 Rnds down from the top of the body), and approx. 2-3 stitches away from the nose on either side. Stitch the hair to the body along the top of each piece.

Side view of the Crochet Angel Gnome sitting on an overturned yellow bowl all pinned together with yarn tails everywhere, ready for assembly.

Arms: Making sure that the thumbs are facing upward, place the arms on either side of the body approx. 8-9sts away from the outer edge of the nose on either side, with the top of the arm touching the top of the gown section (at approx. Rnd 19 of the body) and the bottom flush with the decorative belt. Stitch the arms to the body along the top of the arm. If the arms swing out more than desired once attached, it can also be tacked to the body a few Rnds away from the join to help keep it resting closer to the body.

Back view of the Crochet Angel Gnome all pinned together and ready for stitching.

Wings: The wings are centered at the back of the body, resting right next to each other. (>Design Tip: It may help to look at the gnome from the top to help with centering the wings in relation to the nose.) Whether the ridged side faces forward or backward is personal preference. The final stitches with the yarn tails rest at the top of the gown portion of the body. Attach along the edge of the wing from the top of the gown down to where the decorative trim on the gown begins. Pictured, one stitch was also made at the bottom middle of the wing at the base of the decorative trim to keep the wing closer to the body. This stitch is optional.

Back view of two Crochet Angel Gnomes sitting on overturned yellow ceramic bowls, showing the wings with the flat and the ridged side facing out. — The angel on the left has the ridges facing forward, the angel on the right has them facing the back.

Hat: Pull the hat down over the hair, resting over the bridge of the nose a bit, and invisibly tack it in place near the brim in several places to secure it. >Design Tip: It likely won’t be an issue, but if the hat feels a little tight going over everything, put both of your hands inside the hat and pull outward in several directions to stretch the stitches a bit. Also, make sure to shape it evenly while doing this.

Top view of the Angel Girl Gnome showing the gold halo stitched to the hat.

Halo: Stitch the inside of the halo at the back center of the hat for 4-5 sts. It can be placed as high or as low as desired. Pictured, it is stitched at approx. Rnd 18 of the hat. Once attached, the halo may need to be reshaped into a circle.

Two Crochet Angel Gnome in white and gold, one with brown curls and one with yellow, sit on overturned yellow ceramic bowls on a wooden background.

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

Also, remember that the best way to always be in the loop about new patterns, techniques, tutorials, giveaways, and crafty fun is to subscribe to the newsletter! Thanks for your support!

Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!

Already Have Something on Your Hook?

Prefer a Printable, Ad-Free PDF?

The Inspiration

These Patterns May Also Be of Interest!