Customize Your Own Crochet Doll

Customize your own crochet doll! This delightful, customizable doll is designed to spark creativity and bring your personal style to life. With interchangeable outfit options written into the pattern, and tips throughout, you can design your doll to have adorable shorts, cozy pants, classic overalls, a twirly skirt, or a charming dress—perfect for creating a look that’s uniquely yours or customized to that of your intended recipient.

Add even more personality by choosing the hairstyle that suits your vision, from sweet and simple to fun and whimsical. Whether you prefer classic colors or bold, playful combinations, this doll is the perfect canvas for your imagination. Thoughtfully designed for makers who love to add special touches, this crochet doll makes a wonderful keepsake, heartfelt gift, or treasured addition to any handmade collection.

The pattern is perfect for the intermediate to advanced crocheter, but a determined beginner would likely have great success as well.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Customize Your Own Crochet Doll pattern, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

This year, when I reached out to my audience about the designs that they would love to see on the blog, I received exciting feedback because it was running along the same lines as I was thinking. People wanted to see animals, dolls, and small, quick projects. I’m excited to begin bringing all three of these things to the blog this year, as well as a few other ideas I have brewing in my mind.

There’s just something magical about designing a doll that looks like the recipient you want to give it to, or fulfills the image that you have in your head, so I decided to begin there.

For this doll, I decided to have the clothes be a part of the doll (unremovable), but if you are proficient at making your own clothes, the doll pattern could definitely be used as a base, made in the skin tone of choice, with the clothing being crocheted, knitted, or sewn separately.

That said, I quickly thought of so many options for the doll, and I’ve tried to write many of them into the pattern for shorts, jumpers, shirts both plain and striped, skirts, dresses, pants, shoes, no shoes, headbands, bows, etc, but also feel free to get creative with additional items like scarves, jewelry, and anything else you may come up with. I can’t wait to see your creations!

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The Yarn

I have had both the Basic Stitch Skein Tones yarn, along with the regular Basic Stitch colors from Lion Brand, in my stash for some time, just waiting for this exact design.

As an amigurumi designer, I ALWAYS wish that a yarn line had more colors to choose from, and the regular Basic Stitch colors, while great, do leave me wishing for a lot more. That said, the Skein Tone colors in the line are a dream for someone wanting to design with a variety of skin tones, or for someone who loves to use neutrals for their projects.

I’m going to be writing a whole review on this yarn, so I won’t go into it now (and I’ll link the post here when it’s ready), but I will say that I enjoyed working with this worsted-weight yarn, and if it has the colors you like, I would recommend it for its sitch definition, durability, softness, and budget friendliness.

The colors that were utilized in the design from the regular Basic Stitch include: Baby Pink, Beryl, Black, Charcoal Heather, Deep Denim Heather, Lemonade, Pumpkin, Royal Blue, and White. And those from the Skein Tones include: Almond, Cedarwood, Cocoa, Hazelnut, Ebony, Ivory, and Nutmeg. Each of the specifics for each can be found in the pattern.

Please note that after designing the dolls, I discovered that the Skein Tones yarn in the color Nutmeg has been discontinued. At the time of writing, it still shows it on the Lion Brand website, but the add to cart button says discontinued. So sorry about that, but it can be easily substituted with another brown from this same line or a comparable worsted yarn. Thanks for understanding.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well to Customize Your Own Crochet Doll, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn (or a cotton-acrylic blend) is preferred, this too should work fine. In some of the images, you will see a miniature version of the doll. She was made using the same pattern (with a few noted exceptions in the pattern), a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Crochet Hook, Size G/6 (4.0 mm) (used for the headband & bow)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Safety eyes, 15 mm (7 mm for miniature)
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) buttons, sewing thread, and needle (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) – see below for specifics for each variation
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Skein Tones (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) – see below for specifics for each variation
• The miniature version uses a hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Eggnog, Color (B): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Country Rose, Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Tawny, and  Color (C): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, White. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 7 mm safety eyes or embroider them. 

There Are Several Variations of the Customize Your Own Crochet Doll to Choose From

Variation 1 – Girl in the Yellow Short Onesie

• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Skein Tones (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (A) Nutmeg*, used approx. 175 yds/160 m, Color (C) Ebony, used approx. 84 yds/77 m
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (B) Lemonade, used approx. 110yds/100.5 m
• *I discovered after making the dolls that the color Nutmeg has been discontinued. It can be easily substituted with another brown from this same line or a comparable worsted-weight yarn. Thanks for understanding.  

Variation 2 – Girl in the Pink Dress

• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Skein Tones (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (A) Almond, used approx. 175 yds/160 m
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (B) Baby Pink, used approx. 175 yds/160 m, Color (C) Lemonade, used approx. 285yds/261 m (2 skeins), Color (D) White, used approx. 47 yds/43 m

Variation 3 – Boy in the Shorts & Striped Shirt

• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Skein Tones (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (A) Hazelnut, used approx. 175 yds/160 m, Color (C) Nutmeg*, used approx. 142 yds/130 m, Color (E) Ivory, used approx. 26 yds/24 m
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (B) Pumpkin, used approx. 47 yds/43 m, Color (D) Royal Blue, used approx. 32 yds/29 m, Color (F) Black, used approx. 15 yds/14 m, Color (G) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 20 yds/18 m
• *I discovered after making the dolls that the color Nutmeg has been discontinued. It can be easily substituted with another brown from this same line or a comparable worsted yarn. Thanks for understanding.

Variation 4a and 4b – Boy in the Pants/Overalls

• Lion Brand Basic Stitch Skein Tones (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (A) Cedarwood, used approx. 121 yds/110 m, Color (C) Cocoa, used approx. 79 yds/72 m
• Lion Brand Basic Stitch (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 185 yds/170 m, 3.5 oz/100 g) Color (B) Beryl, used approx. 63 yds/57 m, Color (D) Deep Denim Heather, used approx. 85 yds/78 m for the pants OR approx. 125 yds/114 m for the overalls, Color (E) Black, used approx. 15 yds/14 m, Color (F) Charcoal Heather, used approx. 20 yds/18 m

Variation 5 – Miniature Version, Girl in Striped Skirt

• This version uses a hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Eggnog, Color (B): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Country Rose, Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Tawny, and  Color (C): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, White. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 7 mm safety eyes or embroider them. 

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Gauge

Gauge is not essential to this project, but maintain a tight, even tension so the stuffing does not show through.

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, Variations 1-4 of the Customize Your Own Crochet Doll measure approx. 16 inches (40.6 cm) tall.
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, Variation 5 (the miniature version) of the Customize Your Own Crochet Doll measures approx. 8 inches (20 cm) tall.

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in joined Rnds or in Rows, it will be noted in the pattern.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• For reference, when placing eyes and other facial features, the starting stitch is at the back of the work.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• Caution! If using safety eyes, buttons, or small embellishments, consider who will be using the item. Safety eyes and small parts are not recommended for children under three or those prone to putting things in their mouths, as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes and embellishments are a great alternative!
• Note that Variation 1 of the pattern is the original prototype from designing the pattern. I modified the design after making her so the dolls would have a sturdier neck construction. So, in the images, she may look different in the neck area than the other dolls. Following the pattern, she will also have a sturdier neck like the others.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx.  – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• BLO – work in the back loop only
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch(s) – chain(s)
• dec – decrease
• FLO – work in the front loop only
• inc – increase
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use invisible decrease unless otherwise directed)
• sk – skip
• sl st – slip stitch
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• tog. – together
• WS – wrong side
• yo – yarn over 
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed
• * – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
• Some hand embroidery

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Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. 

To create a 4dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook),
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10.  Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
11.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook),
12.  Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
13.  Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

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Let’s Customize Your Own Crochet Doll!

Arms

Make 2

Using Color (A) for All Variations

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 10sts, 4dcbo in the next st, sc in the next 10sts. (21sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)

Stuff and shape the hand so that it’s firm, but still a bit squishy when pressed, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses with the arm. >Design Tip: When stuffing the second hand, compare it to the first to get them as similar as possible.

• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 14: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnds 15-27: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 13 Rnds) 
• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 4sts, leave the remaining 11sts unworked. (4sts) >Design Note: The 4sts should put the work at the back of the arm so the first st of the next Rnd will be at the center back (opposite the thumb). Add or remove sts as needed to achieve this placement. >Design Tip: It may help to flatten out the arm a bit, as if it were resting against the body, to determine placement.

Switch to Color (B) for all variations to make the sleeve. If making a striped sleeve (Variation 3), see the Design Option note below for additional information on color changes.

>Design Option: If making a striped shirt: Switch to Color (B) for Rnds 29-31, Color (E) for Rnds 32-34, and Color (B-Pumpkin) for Rnd 35. >Design Tips: When working stripes, make the first st of the color change a sl st (counts as a st) to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the colors each time. Simply drop and pick up the colors as needed.

• Rnd 29: Sl st in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (doesn’t count as a st). (15sts) >Design Tip: Don’t make the sl sts too tight as they will be worked into in the next Rnd.
• Rnd 30: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), In BLO: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnds 31-35: Sc in each st around. (15sts for 5 Rnds)
• Fasten off. If the left arm, leave a long tail for later stitching once the arm is seamlessly joined to the body. For the right arm, a shorter tail can be left; an additional length of yarn will be needed due to the tail placement during joining.
• Mark the 1st st on the left arm and the 8th st on the right arm for later reference when seamlessly joining the arms to the body.

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Legs

>Design Note: The legs are made separately, seamlessly joined, and finally progress into making the body and neck, all as one piece. While making the body, the arms will also be seamlessly joined.

Left Leg

Using Color (A) for Variations 1, 2, and 5. For Variations 3 and 4, where shoes are made (or if you want to add shoes to another variation), see the Design Option notes below.

>Design Option: If making shoes with shorts, dresses, or skirts: Work Rnds 1-3 in Black to create the bottom of the shoe. Then work Rnds 4-11 in the main shoe color (Charcoal Heather). Work Rnd 12 in Color (A – skin tone) in BLO, then continue in Color (A) in both loops as written, for Rnds 13 through the rest of the leg.

>Design Option: If making shoes with pants/overalls: Work Rnds 1-3 in Black to create the bottom of the shoe. Then work Rnds 4-11 in the main shoe color (Charcoal Heather). Then work Color (D) for the pants/overalls for Rnds 12 through the rest of the leg.

>Design Note: The feet/shoes are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. 

• Ch 9
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st) and in the next 6ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6ch, 2sc in the next ch. (18sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next 5sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (32sts)
• Rnd 4: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (32sts)
• Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around. (32sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 10sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (22sts)
• Rnds 17-24: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 8 Rnds) 
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 10sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 6sts. (25sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, hdc in the next 6sts, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (23sts)
• Rnd 27: In FLO: 2sc in the next 2sts, In both loops: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (22sts)
• Rnds 29-32: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) >Design Note: The 3sts should place the work at the back of the leg so the first st of the next Rnd will be at the center back. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve this placement. 

Switch to Color (B) for Variation 1. Switch to Color (D) for Variations 2, 3, and 5. Continue with Color (D) for Variation 4, but work the modified version of Rnds 34-40 for the pants/overalls, found below the original Rnds 34-40.

• Rnd 34: Sl st in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (doesn’t count as a st). Mark the 1st st as the new starting st. (22sts) >Design Tip: Don’t make the sl sts too tight as they will be worked into in the next Rnd.
• Rnd 35: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), In BLO: sc in each st around. (22sts)
• Rnds 36-40: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 5 Rnds)
• Fasten off.

Modified Version of Rnds 34-40 Used When Making Pants/Overalls (Variation 4)

• Rnds 34-40: Sc in each st around. Mark the 1st st of Rnd 34 as the new starting st. (22sts for 7 Rnds)
• Fasten off.

Right Leg

Using Color (A) for Variations 1, 2, and 5. For Variations 3 and 4, where shoes are made (or if you want to add shoes to another variation), follow the same color change information as for the left leg.

• Ch 9
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st) and in the next 6ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6ch, 2sc in the next ch. (18sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the next 5sts, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st. (32sts)
• Rnd 4: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (32sts)
• Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around. (32sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 10sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 6 times, sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts. (17sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts. (15sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (22sts)
• Rnds 17-24: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 8 Rnds) 
• Rnd 25: Sc in the next 10sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 6sts. (25sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, hdc in the next 6sts, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (23sts)
• Rnd 27: In FLO: 2sc in the next 2sts, In both loops: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts. (22sts)
• Rnds 29-32: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) >Design Note: The 3sts should place the work at the back of the leg so the first st of the next Rnd will be at the center back. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve this placement. 

Switch to Color (B) for Variation 1. Switch to Color (D) for Variations 2, 3, and 5. Continue with Color (D) for Variation 4, but work the modified version of Rnds 34-41 for the pants/overalls, found below the original Rnds 34-41.

• Rnd 34: Sl st in each st around, sl st to the first st to join (doesn’t count as a st). Mark the 1st st as the new starting st. (22sts) >Design Tip: Don’t make the sl sts too tight as they will be worked into in the next Rnd.
• Rnd 35: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), In BLO: sc in each st around. (22sts)
• Rnds 36-40: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 41: Sc in the next 8sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (8sts) >Design Note: The 8sts should leave the work at the inner center of the leg. Add or remove sts to achieve the desired placement in preparation for joining the legs together. Place a stitch marker in the first unworked st for later reference when joining.
• Do not fasten off; continue with joining the legs together.

Modified Version of Rnds 34-41 Used When Making Pants/Overalls (Variation 4)

• Rnds 34-40: Sc in each st around. Mark the 1st st of Rnd 34 as the new starting st. (22sts for 7 Rnds)
• Rnd 41: Sc in the next 8sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (8sts) >Design Note: The 8sts should leave the work at the inner center of the leg. Add or remove sts to achieve the desired placement in preparation for joining the legs together. Place a stitch marker in the first unworked st for later reference when joining.
• Do not fasten off; continue with joining the legs together.

Joining the Legs Together and Making the Body

>Design Note: Beginning in the next Rnd, the legs are seamlessly joined tog. and the body is made. 

Continuing in the same color for All Variations.

• Ch 3 >Design Tip: Don’t make the chains too tight as the back and front of them will need to be worked into in the next Rnd.

• Rnd 42: Insert the hook into the inner center st on the left leg from the RS to the WS and make a standing sc (mark this as the new starting st), sc in the next 21sts around the left leg, working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the next 3ch, join back to the right leg with a standing sc in the st closest to the ch (previously marked with a st marker) working from the RS to the WS, sc in the next 21sts, sc in the next 3ch. (50sts)
• Rnd 43: Sc in each st around. (50sts)
• Rnd 44: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 45: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 46: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 47: Sc in each st around. (66sts)
• Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (72sts)
• Rnds 49-52: Sc in each st around. (72sts for 4 Rnds)
• Rnd 53: Sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 34sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog. (69sts)
• Rnd 54: Sc in each st around. (69sts)

Continue in the same color for Variation 1. Switch color and make modifications for Variations 2-5 as described in the Design Options below.

>Design Options:

To add a skirt/dress: (shown in Variations 2 and 5) Switch to Color (B). Work Rnd 55, then work Rnd 56 in BLO. The unworked front loops will be used later to add the skirt/bottom of the dress. Mark the first unused front loop for later reference. Continue in this color for the rest of the pattern as written through Rnd 76.

For a shirt with overalls: (shown in Variation 4b) Switch to Color (B). Work Rnd 55 in the desired color for the top in BLO. The unworked front loops will be used later to add the bib portion of the overalls. Continue in the shirt color for the rest of the pattern as written through Rnd 76. >Design Tip: When working in BLO, use a regular sc decrease.

For a plain shirt: (shown in Variation 4a) Switch to Color (B). If making a plain shirt, begin in the desired color in Rnd 55. As preferred, the shirt can begin by working in the BLO (creating a decorative edge at the top of the pants/shorts), in FLO (pulling the shirt just slightly forward from the pants/shorts), or in both loops (keeping the shirt flush with the pants/shorts). The last two of these options are very similar in appearance. Continue in this color for the rest of the pattern as written through Rnd 76. >Design Option: The directions are the same if making a plain shirt with shorts.

For a striped shirt: (shown in Variation 3) Switch to Color (B). Begin in Rnd 55 and switch colors every 3 Rnds through Rnd 76 (with the final 3sts in Rnd 76 completed in Color (B). Pictured, the striped shirt begins working in FLO with Color (B) and switches to Color (E). >Design Tips: When working stripes, make the first st of the color change a sl st (counts as a st) to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the colors each time. Simply drop and pick up the colors as needed. >Design Tip: When working in BLO or FLO, use a regular sc decrease. >Design Option: A striped shirt can also be made for Variations 2, 4, and 5, just remember to leave the unworked Rnd of front loops (see directions above for each) to add the skirt/dress bottom/overall panels.

• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 21sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 56: Sc in each st around. (66sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 20sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (63sts)
• Rnds 58-60: Sc in each st around. (63sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 61: [Sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 62: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 63: [Sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (56sts)
• Rnd 64: [Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (52sts)
• Rnds 65-66: Sc in each st around. (52sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 67: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (48sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. >Design Tip: Make sure to get extra stuffing down into the tops of the legs and the groin area so they’re well stuffed.

Adding the Arms to the Body 

>Design Notes:  In the next Rnd, the arms are joined to the body. 4sts on the body will be skipped when joining the arms. If it’s helpful to make sure the right sts are being skipped, you can mark them. They will be stitches 16, 17, 41, and 42. All additional stitch markers used for joining can be removed as they are reached. Also note that once the arms are attached, the thumbs should be facing forward.

• Rnd 68: Sc in the next 15sts, join the left arm to the body: with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the 1st st of the arm (previously marked) from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (standing sc made), continue to sc around the arm for the next 14sts, join back onto the body: sk the next 2sts, standing sc in the next st, sc in the next 22sts, join the right arm to the body: with the working loop on the hook insert the hook into the 8th st of the arm (previously marked) from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (standing sc made), continue to sc around the arm for the next 14sts, join back onto the body: sk the next 2sts, standing sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts. (74sts, not counting the 4 sk sts)
• Rnd 69: Sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts. (67sts)
• Rnd 70: Sc in the next 13sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 7 times, sc in the next 5sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 71: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (54sts)

Using the yarn tail from the left arm and an additional length of yarn for the right arm, stitch the holes left when joining the arms.

• Rnd 72: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 73: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 74: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 75: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 76: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) >Design Note: These 3sts should place the work so the next worked st will be at the center back. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve the desired placement.

>Design Tip: Make sure to get stuffing down into the arms and shoulders, and firmly stuff and shape the body as the pattern progresses into making the neck.

>Design Option: If using, at this time, it may be easier to add buttons or other embellishments to the top of the bodice, before adding the neck, but they can also be added later.

Making the Neck and Neck Stub

>Design Tip: Make sure to firmly stuff the neck and the neck stub to ensure stability for the head.

Switch to Color (A) for All Variations

• Rnd 77: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 5 times. (24sts) Mark the first st as the new starting st. >Design Tip: When working in BLO, use a regular sc dec.
• Rnd 78: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 79: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 80: Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st. (16sts)
• Rnds 81-90: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 10 Rnds)
• Rnd 91: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 92: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail. >Design Tip: Add extra stuffing before closing to ensure that the neck stub is firm all the way to the top.

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Preparations

Applicable to All Variations

Cut two lengths of Color (A) approx. 25-30 inches/64-76 cm in length for stitching the nose and for securing the neck later in the pattern. If access to a yarn tail on the outside of the skein, or another skein, is available, this preparation step can be skipped. Set them aside for later.

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Making the Head Stub and Head

Make 1

Using Color (A) for All Variations

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnds 5-14: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 10 Rnds) 
• Rnd 15: 2sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 7 times. (49sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 7 times. (56sts)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (64sts)
• Rnds 19-33: Sc in each st around. (64sts for 15 Rnds) 

Stitching the Neck and Head Stubs Together

Push the head stub portion (Rnds 1-14) up into the head. Now, place the head stub on the neck stub with the working yarn at the back of the body. Ensure that the neck is inserted all the way, Approx. 6-7 Rnds of Color (A) should show from the top of the shirt to the head for the torso and neck. Using a length of Color (A), stitch through the head and neck stub several times in all directions until they are securely attached tog. >Design Tip: If helpful, the rest of the head can be pushed down over the shoulders for easier access when stitching the stumps tog. Make sure not to stitch too low, otherwise the doll will have a really short neck, but also low enough so the neck isn’t too long.

Insert the eyes centered on the front of the face (suggested placement is between Rnds 30 and 31 (between 3 and 4 Rnds down from the top) of the head, approx. 9sts apart. 

Using a length of Color (A) and a tapestry needle, whipstitch the nose centered between the eyes by making horizontal sts on top of each other, between approx. Rnds 28 and 29, approx. 4sts in length for appox. 9 wraps, until the desired size and shape are achieved. Add any other desired features. Pictured in Variation 3, he has a mouth, also in Color (A), centered with the nose, as a straight horizontal line placed between approx. Rnds 23 and 24, approx. 6sts in length.

• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (56sts)
• Rnds 35-36: Sc in each st around. (56sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the head and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

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Bottom of the Dress/Skirt

Shown in Variations 2 and 5

Using Color (B) for Variations 2 and 5

For a striped dress bottom/skirt: Change colors every 2 Rnds. (Variation 5 changes between Color (B) and Color (E)).

>Design Notes: The skirt is made in joined Rnds. Neither the joining sl st nor the ch 1 at the start of the Rnd counts as a st. Work the 1st st of each Rnd in the same space as the join and ch 1.   

>Design Options: The skirt portion can be made to any desired length by adding or removing Rnds. For example, making a few Rnds gives a decorative edge to the shirt, rather than making a dress/skirt. Made a bit longer than this, it becomes a tunic that pairs well with the shorts or pants options. Add additional Rnds to the written pattern, and the dress becomes a ball gown. Stripes, blocked colors, or hand embroidery are a few options to add pattern to the outfit. For a dress/skirt that’s not quite as full, work Rnds 1-3 and then begin working in each st around (skipping to Rnd 5). With any of the options, I recommend adding an edging (See Rnd 15).

The first Rnd starts with a standing sc, in the previously marked front loop of Rnd 56, with the hook facing towards the feet. Mark this as the starting st.

• Rnd 1: Sc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (66sts)
• Rnd 2: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 5sts, 2hdc in the next st] 11 times, sl st to the first st to join. (77sts)  
• Rnd 3: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 3sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 3sts] 11 times, sl st to the first st to join. (88sts) 
• Rnd 4: Ch 1, [hdc in the next 7sts, 2hdc in the next st] 11 times, sl st to the first st to join. (99sts)  
• Rnds 5-14: Hdc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (99sts for 10 Rnds) For Rnd 14: If making the decorative edge on the dress/skirt, add an additional hdc in the last st for an even 100sts in the Rnd. 

Dress/Skirt Edge

>Design Options: Below are two options for the bottom of the dress/skirt: a decorative and a straight edge. 

• Rnd 15: Decorative Edge: Ch 1, (sc, ch3, sc) in the same st, sk the next st, *(sc, ch3, sc) in the same st, sk the next st; repeat from * around, sl st to the first st to join. 
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.
• Rnd 15: Straight Edge: Sl st in each st around. (99sts)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Turning the Pants Into Overalls

Front Panel of the Overalls

Shown in Variation 4b

Using Color (D)

Row 1 Preparation. The front panel is centered at the front of the body, and is made utilizing the unused front loops of Rnd 55 at the top of the pants. It will start with 23sts. The easiest way to identify these sts is to find the front center stitch of the pants and then count out 11sts to either side (pictured the 24th through the 46th st of unused loops were used). 

• Row 1: The first Row starts with a standing sc. With the doll facing you, insert the hook into the loop on the right in the direction from the pants towards the head, and sc in each st across. (23sts)
• Rows 2-8: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in each st across. (23sts for 7 Rnds)
• Row 9: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog. (21sts) >Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.  
• Row 10: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (21sts)
• Row 11: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 17sts, sc2tog. (19sts) 
• Row 12: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (19sts)
• Row 13: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog. (17sts) 
• Row 14: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (17sts) 
• Row 15: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog. (15sts)
• Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (15sts) 
• Row 17: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog. (13sts)
• Row 18: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (13sts) 
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Back Panel of the Overalls

Shown in Variation 4b

Using Color (D)

Row 1 Preparation. The back panel is centered at the back of the body, and is made utilizing the unused front loops of Rnd 55 at the top of the pants. It will start with 23sts. The easiest way to identify these sts is to find the center back stitch of the pants and then count out 11sts to either side (pictured the 58th through to the 11th sts of unused loops at the back were used. That’s 12sts away from the front panel edge on the right and 13 away from the left panel edge). 

• Row 1: The first Row starts with a standing sc. With the doll facing away from you, insert the hook into the loop on the right in the direction from the pants towards the head, and sc in each st across. (23sts)
• Rows 2-8: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in each st across. (23sts for 7 Rnds) 
• Row 9: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts, sc2tog. (21sts) >Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows.  
• Row 10: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (21sts)
• Row 11: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 17sts, sc2tog. (19sts) 
• Row 12: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (19sts)
• Row 13: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 15sts, sc2tog. (17sts) 
• Row 14: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (17sts) 
• Row 15: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog. (15sts)
• Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (15sts) 
• Row 17: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog. (13sts)
• Row 18: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (13sts) 
• Do not fasten off. Continue with making the right strap.

Making the Right Strap

>Design Note: Both straps are written so they overlap the front of the bib a bit. If wanting them to be flush with the top, remove approx. 5 rows.

• Row 19: Turn, ch 1, sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
• Rows 20-39: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 20 Rnds) 
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the strap to the front bib.

Making the Left Strap

• Row 1: On the back, top, far left side of the overalls, count over 3sts to the right and fasten on with a standing sc, sc in the next 2sts. (3sts)
•  Rows 2-21: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across. (3sts for 20 Rnds)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the strap to the front bib. Weave in the starting tails.

Making the Overall Pocket

Using Color (D)

• Ch 12
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (11sts)
• Rows 2-8: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. (11sts for 7 Rows) 
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the pocket to the overalls. Weave in the starting tail. 

Assemble the Overalls

• Stitch the pocket to the front center of the overall panel.  Stitch around the two sides and the bottom, leaving the top open. (Pictured, the bottom of the pocket is approx. 4 Rnds up from the base of the panel.)

• Add any additional decorative stitching or buttons, as desired. (Pictured, buttons were stitched to the bottom of the straps, and then the straps were stitched to the front panel.)
• Ensuring that they are not twisted, stitch the straps to the top of the front overall panel. (Pictured, the straps overlap the top of the panel by approx. 4 rows of the strap.)

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Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A) for All Variations

>Design Note: The ears are worked in turned rows, starting with a MR. 

• Row 1: 5sc in MR. (5sts) Pull closed, but do not join.
• Row 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook. (5sts)
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in the next st, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next st. (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the ear to the head. Weave in the starting tail. 

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Wig Cap

>Design Note: The wig cap is worked in BLO to create loops for making the hair. 

Make 1

Using Color (C) for All Variations

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: In BLO: 2sc in each st around. (12sts) Mark the unused front loop of the first st for later reference when making the hair.
• Rnd 3: In BLO: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: In BLO: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: In BLO: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: In BLO: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: In BLO: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: In BLO: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: In BLO: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: In BLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 11: In BLO: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 12: In BLO: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 6 times. (72sts)
• Rnds 13-14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (72sts for 2 Rnds)

The next part is worked in rows and will create the front of the wig cap. The ch 1 at the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st.

• Row 1: Turn, ch 1, In FLO: sc in the next 32sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (32sts)
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1, In BLO: sc in the next 32sts. (32sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch 1, In FLO: Sc2tog, sc in the next 28sts, sc2tog. (30sts) >Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in FLO.
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail (25+ inches/63.5+ cm) for stitching the front half of the wig cap to the head.  

The next part is worked in rows and will create the back of the wig cap. The ch 1 at the beginning of a row doesn’t count as a st.

Set up for Row 1: With the unworked sts of Rnd 14 facing up and the RS of the work facing towards you, starting from the right side, count over 4 unworked sts, and begin Row 1, the first st being a standing sc in the back loop of the 5th unworked st. >Design Note: This will leave a 4-stitch gap between the front piece and the back piece. An additional 4sts will be skipped on the other side, creating gaps in the wig cap for the ears.

• Row 1: In BLO: Sc in the next 32sts, leave the remaining 4sts unworked. (32sts)
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1, In FLO: sc in the next 32sts. (32sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch 1, In BLO: Sc2tog, sc in the next 28sts, sc2tog. (30sts) >Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in BLO.
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail (25+ inches/63.5+ cm) for stitching the back of the wig cap to the head. Weave in the starting ends.   

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Stitching the Wig Cap to the Head

• Position the wig cap on the top of the head with the front centered with the face. The yarn tails should be on the right side of the body. Pictured, the front center of the cap rests approx. 2 Rnds above the eyes. Once the desired placement is achieved, pin it in place. >Design Tip: To find the front center of the wig cap, fold the front piece in half so the edges meet, mark the center, and align it with the nose, which should already be centered on the face.

>Design Tip: At this time, it may also be beneficial to place the ears to make sure that the cap sits well with where you want the ears to be. They don’t have to be stitched on now, but knowing they have a proper place is beneficial.

• Stitch along the very front edge of the wig cap, avoiding the front loops from the previous row. This can be done with either a whip stitch or an invisible running stitch, run horizontally at the edge of the cap. Personally, I like the whip stitch in every stitch along the edge of the cap if I know that the hairline will be more visible. If it’s going to be covered with hair, then tacking it every couple of sts with the running stitch is great and faster.
• One yarn tail may very well get you around the entire head, but the second is there just in case it doesn’t. If both tails are used, you may need to use one to stitch backwards around the ear hole and then insert the needle through the head, coming out at the hairline to continue stitching. Either way, when the earhole gaps are reached, stitch only in the front loops, leaving the back loops for adding the hair.

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Adding the Hair

The hair will next be added using the BLO and FLO loops left when making the wig cap. 

Note that on the front and back pieces, where it was worked in turned rows, the ridges look a little different when compared to the larger BLO section (Rnds 1-14) of the cap due to switching from BLO to FLO. Both types of ridges may be worked into, so familiarize yourself with how they look.

The hair is the part that takes some time to complete, but also adds a lot of personality. It can be made long or short, wavy, straight, or curly, or the wig cap can even be left as is for super short hair. 

General guidelines are given for making certain styles, but there will also be a lot of creative freedom in this part.

Each section of hair starts out with making a ch. For longer hair, make the ch long; for shorter hair/bangs, make the ch shorter. How you work back up the ch helps to determine if the hair will be wavy or curly. 

Basic methods and tips for making the hair follow as well as the general techniques used for each of the dolls. 

Basic Methods for Creating the Hair

>Design Note: Below the instructions use a sc for the strands of hair. It is also possible to use a hdc or dc to make a wider strand of hair. 

Using the desired color, begin by joining onto the previously marked st on the wig cap with a sl st. From here, follow the guidelines below. 

For Curly Hair: Make as many ch as desired for the preferred length, then add one more ch. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars of the ch, 2sc in each ch across. When the wig cap is reached, sl st into the next 3 empty loops (see spacing note below), and repeat with a new ch.

For Wavy Hair: Make as many ch as desired for the preferred length of hair, then add one more ch. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars of the ch, sc in each ch across. When the wig cap is reached, sl st into the next 3 empty loops (see spacing note below), and repeat with a new ch. 

For Straight Hair: Follow the instructions for wavy hair and then either block each strand or carefully use a flat iron to straighten each piece. Make sure to give appropriate caution when using a flat iron, and I’d advise even testing this on a separate piece before trying it on your doll if there are any questions about how your yarn will react to the heat. 

Additional Design Tips When Adding the Hair

Spacing: 

In the pattern, typically 3-4 sl sts are used between the strands of hair for spacing. More or less than this can be made to spread the locks of hair out, or to move them closer together. The closer the chains are together, the fuller the head of hair will be. 

As more Rnds of hair are added, try to position the locks of hair so they stagger each other instead of sitting right on top of each other. In this case, you may want to skip a st or two while making the sl sts.

 After making several dolls, I found that working in every single Rnd makes for a very thick head of hair. When the hair is long, this puts a lot of stress on the neck, so in this case, consider skipping Rnds (I definitely would if I made my dolls again, especially for longer hair). The hair will fill in the skipped space. To do this, simply sl st to the desired Rnd to be worked and begin adding chains for the hair. Another option here (more applicable to long hair) is to work in every Rnd for the first few Rnds to give fullness on top and then begin to skip Rnds.

Hair Direction: Working in the same direction versus working in different directions. 

If all the locks of hair are worked in a continuous spiral, then they will all face the same direction. This is fine. However, if you work a Rnd in one direction and then switch directions on the next Rnd, you will get hair that lies more forward in one direction and more back in the next (especially if doing shorter hair). This is also the case when working the front and back row sections of the wig cap. If you work forwards and backwards in this section, the hair will go in different directions. If you want it to lie all one way, you will need to stop and start the Rows on the same side. Don’t stress it too much. It’ll be great, however you choose to do it. 

Hair Length: The final length of the hair should be taken into consideration when deciding how many initial chains to make. For shorter hair, this isn’t as much of a factor, but for longer hair, it is. For example, the starting ch of 61 for the Variation 2 doll with yellow curls is approx. 12.5 inches (32 cm). Once worked, it shrinks up to approx. 5.5 inches (14 cm) unstretched, so a significant reduction in length. 

Also keep in mind that as you work around the wig cap, if you keep the ch the same length, the curls at the bottom will appear longer because they start further down on the wig cap. To keep the hair the same length, you’ll need to reduce the number of chains as you progress down the wig cap.

Once made, the hair can be tied with ribbons, braided, put into ponytails, and more. Keep the final hairstyle in mind when determining how long to make the hair.

A Synopsis of the Hair Technique Used for Each Doll  

• Variation 1: Creating a Curly Bun
  • Join with a sl st to the top of the wig cap (previously marked), *ch10, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: 2sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 3 wig cap sts, repeat from * for approx. 6 Rnds in a continuous spiral, leaving the rest of the wig cap unworked. 
  • Make sure to review the design tips above for spacing and hair direction.  

• Variation 2: Creating Long Ringlets With Bangs
  • Join with a sl st to the top of the wig cap (previously marked), *ch 61, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: 2sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 3 wig cap sts, repeat from * for approx. 5-6 Rnds in a continuous spiral. 

• Making the shorter bang pieces: Now, only the front portion of the Rnds are worked. Sl st into the next row down from the main part of the hair (approx. Rnd 7), at the side of the head where the front edge of the wig cap is, *ch 31, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: 2sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 3 wig cap sts, repeat from * to the other front edge of the wig cap, sl st down two Rnds (so a row is skipped) and repeat from * until the other front edge is reached. 
• Make sure to review the design tips above for spacing, hair direction, and length. 

• Variation 3: Creating short, full hair
  • Join with a sl st to the top of the wig cap (previously marked), *ch5, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 4 wig cap sts, repeat from * in a continuous spiral until the end. Work the front and back portions using the same technique, but working in rows. Fasten off and use additional lengths of yarn as needed when working the rows.
  • Make sure to review the design tips above for spacing and hair direction.  

• Variation 4: Creating short, spaced-out hair that’s worked in different directions
  • Join with a sl st to the top of the wig cap (previously marked), *ch5, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 4 wig cap sts, repeat from * in a continuous spiral, but each time the starting point is reached relative to the finished Rnd above, sk a Rnd (do so by slip stitching down to the next desired working Rnd), and work in the opposite direction. These techniques both change the direction of the hair with each Rnd and give more spacing between the strands. For thicker hair, work every Rnd. >Design Tip: If it’s tricky to keep track of the starting lock of hair, place a stitch marker in the top of it, moving the marker with each new Rnd. At the end, Rnd 14 of the cap was also worked all the way around, followed by working across each of the front and back sections in rows. Fasten off and use additional lengths of yarn as needed when working the rows.
  • Make sure to review the design tips above for spacing and hair direction.

• Variation 5: Creating long, wavy hair
  • Join with a sl st to the top of the wig cap (previously marked), *ch 51, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: sc in each ch across, sl st in the next 4 wig cap sts, repeat from * for approx. 9 Rnds in a continuous spiral. Then reduce the number of ch to 41 and continue in the spiral as before. 
  • Working in the front and back row sections of the wig cap: The back section was left unworked. The first two rows of the front section, closest to the rest of the hair, were used, leaving the very bottom row of loops unworked. This section was worked in the ch 41, sl st 4 pattern.
  • Make sure to review the design tips above for spacing, hair direction, and length. 
  • >Design Tip: As written, this doll has SO much hair, but unlike the worsted weight doll, her neck seems to have no problem with the weight from working in every Rnd. That said, I would still definitely skip Rnds if I were to make her again. 

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Accessorize

>Design Note: Below are options for making a headband and a bow. The bow works great with the headband (as shown in Variation 2 using Color (B)), but would also look cute on the front chest of a dress/shirt (not shown), or sitting to the side at the waist of a dress/skirt (as shown in Variation 5 using Color (E)).

Headband

Using a size G (4.0 mm) hook and the desired yarn color (shown in Variation 2 using Color (B)).

• Ch 57
• Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: Hdc in each ch across. (56sts)
• Check to ensure the fit. 
• Rnds 2-3: Turn, ch 1, Hdc in each ch across. (56sts for 2 Rnds)
• Check to ensure fit.
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the headband together and, if desired, to tack the headband to the head. Weave in the starting tail.

Bow With Tails

Using a size G (4.0 mm) hook and desired yarn color (shown in Variation 2 using Color (B)).

>Design Tip: The pattern uses sl sts to help shape the bow. When making them, do not do them too tightly as they will be worked into in the next Rnd.

• Ch 34
• Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bars: Hdc in the next 4ch, [sl st in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next 8ch] 2 times, sl st in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next 4 ch. (33sts)
• Rows 2-3: Turn, ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in the next 4sts, [sl st in the next 3sts, hdc in the next 8sts] 2 times, sl st in the next 3sts, hdc in the next 4sts. (33sts for 2 Rnds)
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Forming the Bow

• Fold the left side section of sl sts to the back to meet the center section of sl sts. Pinching the sl st sections together, pull the end tail so it points down to the right.
• Fold the right side section of sl sts to the back to meet the other two sl st sections. Pinching the sl st sections together, pull the end tail so it points down to the left.
• Continue to manipulate the bow as needed to obtain the desired shape. If desired, tack the centers to secure them tog.
• With an additional length of yarn, wrap several times around the center of the bow, going between the tails and over the top of the bow until the desired look is achieved. Using a tapestry needle, secure the tail at the back of the bow, leaving an additional length for stitching the bow to the desired placement.

Assembling the Headband

• Whip st the short edges of the headband together to form a loop. If attaching it to the head, leave the tail, otherwise weave in the end.
• Stitch the bow over the headband seam.
• Place the headband in the desired position on the head and secure it as desired.
• >Design Tip: Depending on how thick the hair is, it may be easier to wrap the strip for the headband around the head in the desired place and seam it together in place.

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Assembly

• If it hasn’t already been done, pin the ears to each side of the head within the ear space, ensuring that they are level with each other, then stitch them in place. They can be stitched so they stick out (as pictured in each variation), or if preferred, they can be stitched so they rest against the head.

• Add any additional buttons, embroidery, beads, accessories, etc., as desired.

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Front and Back View of Each Variation

Variation 1 – Girl in the Yellow Short Onesie

Variation 2 – Girl in the Pink Dress

Variation 3 – Boy in the Shorts & Striped Shirt

Variation 4a – Boy in the Pants

Variation 4b – Boy in the Pants Turned into Overalls

Variation 5 – Miniature Version, Girl in Striped Skirt

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome