Crochet Graduation Gnome

Five Crochet Graduation Gnomes sit side by side, two boys with white beards dressed in black and red and royal blue and silver, the three girls, two with brown braids, dressed in deep green and silver and burgundy and gold and a miniature girl in brown and gold with yellow curls all surrounded by crochet paraphernalia and decor items.

Celebrate your favorite graduate with an adorable, customizable Crochet Graduation Gnome. This graduation gnome pattern features a classic mortarboard cap and outfit in the graduate’s school colors, and can then also be personalized with a fluffy beard, sweet braids, or playful curly hair.

Whether you’re creating a keepsake for a senior, decorating for a graduation party, or making a heartfelt, handmade gift, this charming gnome is full of personality and school spirit, and will be treasured for years to come.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Graduation Gnome, or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Two Crochet Graduation Gnomes sit side by side on a wooden bench, one with tan skin and a white beard, dressed in deep charcoal and red, the other a girl with brown braids, dressed in burgundy and gold, surrounded by crochet paraphernalia and decor items.

Gnomes are a favorite here on the blog, and it seems that I’m gradually creating one for every occasion and theme. I’ve received several requests for a graduation gnome, and with a graduation occurring in my own home this year, I thought it was definitely time to bring this one to fruition.

I’ve done my best to pack this design with personality and school spirit to make it the perfect addition to any graduation celebration. Because I love options in my designs (and I hope you do, too!) I decided to include an option for a beard, braids, or curls for optimal personalization.

Due to the endless color combinations and fun custom details the pattern provides, I hope that you, too, enjoy making and personalizing the Crochet Graduation Gnome to celebrate all the special graduates in your life on their special day. Happy Crocheting!

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Collage images of Crochet Graduation Gnomes, a boy with a beard and a girl with braids wearing school colors and graduation caps surrounded by books, pencils, and yarn. Text overlay, "Free Pattern, Crochet Graduation Gnome, JenHayesCreations.com."

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Two Patriotic Gnomes, one large and one miniature, in red and white stripes and blue jacket and shoes, holding crocheted gold stars, sit amongst yarn in the same colors with other decor items and mugs full of crochet hooks. — Patriotic Gnome

A small wooden bushel basket full of crochet apples in red, yellow, and green surrounded by more yarn and crocheted apples and crocheted apple slices in the same colors. — Patriotic Gnome

The Yarn

Three Crochet Graduation Gnomes in black and red and blue and silver with white beards, and green and silver with brown braids, sitting on overturned bowls surrounded by yarn balls and other decor items.

The Crochet Graduation Gnome was made using Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft, a lighter worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles.

You should be aware that this yarn can have a tendency to split. That said, I’ve used it for so many years that I’m accustomed to its properties and don’t have as many issues as I once did. I love the softness and lighter weight to it, and the color range is great for amigurumi (other than skin tone colors, which, as an amigurumi designer, I always want more of), so I recommend it.

The Graduation Gnome design itself was created to focus on school colors, utilizing one as the main color to create the cap and outfit, and then using a second contrasting color to add accents in the shoes, tassel, and stripes on the sleeves. Pictured, you’ll see the pairings of Charcoal Grey Heather and Autumn Red, Royal Blue and Grey Heather, Burgundy and Gold, Sage Green and Grey Heather, and for the miniature gnome, brown and gold.

Neutral colors were used for the beard (Off White), braids (Taupe), and curls (yellow in thread), but feel free to go wild as you’d like with your choice of hair color.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Graduation Gnome, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this should work fine, too. You can see the miniature version of the Graduation Gnome in some of the images. She was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

Using a DK/Sport weight yarn would also be a great possibility if you want an in-between-sized Graduation Gnome. In this case, I typically use a size B/1 (2.25 mm) hook.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

The Pattern

Two Crochet Graduation Gnomes sit side by side on a wooden bench, one with brown skin and a white beard, dressed in royal blue and silver, the other a girl with brown braids, dressed in deep green and silver, surrounded by crochet paraphernalia and decor items.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Stuffing
Pins
Tapestry Needle
Pet Slicker Brush (optional for brushing the beard)
Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Colors Used: Autumn Red, Bone, Burgundy, Dark Sage, Gold, Off White, Royal Blue, Taupe – *see details below
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Colors Used: Charcoal Heather, Grey Heather – *see details below
The miniature Graduation Gnome shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Natural, Color (B): Curio #10 thread, Mongoose, Color (C): Curio #10 thread, Hawk, Color (D): Curio #10 thread, Tumeric, Color (D): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Artiste. The same pattern is used with minor changes when making the tassel and assembling the cap. Instructions are noted in those sections.

*Choose from Three Variations of the Crochet Graduation Gnome

Color Key:

Color (A): Skin Tone
Color (B): Main Color (clothing and cap)
Color (C): Sole color of the shoe
Color (D): Contrasting Color (main shoe, stripes, and tassel)
Color (E): Hair Color

Variation 1 – Gnome with Beard

Two Crochet Graduation Gnomes sit side by side on a wooden bench, one with tan skin and a white beard, dressed in deep charcoal and red, the other with brown skin and a white beard, dressed in royal blue and silver, surrounded by crochet paraphernalia and decor items.

Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, used approx 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Charcoal Heather OR Royal Blue, used approx 140 yds/128 m, Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx 15 yds/14 m, Color (D) Autumn Red OR Grey Heather, used approx 30 yds/27 m, Color (E) Off White, used approx 15 yds/14 m

Variation 2 – Gnome with Braids

Two Crochet Girl Graduation Gnomes sit side by side on overturned ceramic bowls, with tan skin and brown braids, dressed in deep green and silver and burgundy and gold surrounded by crochet paraphernalia, flowers, and decor items.

Color (A) Bone OR Taupe, used approx. 50 yds/46 m, Color (B) Burgundy OR Sage Green, used approx 140 yds/128 m, Color (C) Charcoal Heather, used approx 15 yds/14 m, Color (D) Gold OR Grey Heather, used approx 30 yds/27 m, Color (E) Taupe, used approx 20 yds/18 m

Variation 3 – Gnome with Curls

A miniature crocheted graduation gnome in brown and gold sits on a cupped hand with yarn paraphernalia and decor items blurred in the background.

Shown in the miniature version. See miniature gnome notes above. If making in worsted weight yarn, the same yarn amounts are used as for the Gnome with Braids, with approx 32 yds/29 m used for curly hair.

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.
Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx 13/16 inch (2.06 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Crochet Graduation Gnome measures approx 8 inches (20 cm) tall.
Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Crochet Graduation Gnome measures approx 4 inches (10cm) tall. (See the Materials section for more details.)

Design Notes

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
For more details about making the Miniature Crochet Graduation Gnome, see the Materials section.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

approx – approximately
back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
BLO – work in the back loop only
bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
ch(s) – chain(s)
FLO – work in the front loop only
invisible finish
MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
Rnd(s) – round(s)
Row(s) – row(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
sl st – slip stitch
standing sc – standing single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog – together
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over (or yarn under, based on the technique being used)
[ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in the pattern.

To create a 3dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Graduation Gnome!

Three Crochet Graduation Gnomes sit side by side one with brown skin and a white beard, dressed in royal blue and silver, the other two, girls with brown braids, dressed in deep green and silver and burgundy and gold surrounded by crochet paraphernalia and decor items.

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) for all variations

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten off.
Firmly stuff and shape the nose.

Body

Make 1

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the nose as the pattern progresses.

Using Color (B) for all variations

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnds 9-19: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 11 Rnd)

Switch to Color (A) for all variations

Rnd 20: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
Rnds 21-22: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)

In the next two Rnds, the nose is added seamlessly to the body.

Pics showing the first stitch seaming the bottom of the nose to the body and then the bottom of the nose fully attached. — **Image Left:** Hook inserted to begin joining the bottom of the nose. **Image Right:** The bottom of the nose is seamlessly added. (See Rnd 23)

Rnd 23: Sc in the next 25sts, join the bottom of the nose to the body: with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into any st on the nose from the WS to the RS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)

Pics showing the first stitch seaming the top of the nose to the body and then the top of the nose fully attached. — **Image Left:** Hook inserted to begin joining the top of the nose. **Image Right:** The top of the nose is seamlessly added. (See Rnd 24)

Rnd 24: Sc in the next 25sts, join the top of the nose to the body: with the working loop still on the hook, insert the hook into the next st on the nose closest to the hook from the RS to the WS of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts tog for the next 3sts, on the body: sc in the next 19sts. (48sts)
Rnds 25-33: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 9 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
Rnd 39: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

Shoe and Leg

Front and side view of the legs for the Crochet Graduation Gnome with burgundy legs and gold and charcoal shoes.

Make 2

Using Color (C) for all variations.

>Design Note: The shoe begins by working on both sides of the foundation ch.

Ch 9
Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st), sc in the next 6sts, 3sc in the last st (corner rounded and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (18sts)
Rnd 2: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 3: [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (30sts)

Switch to Color (D) for all variations

Rnd 4: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 29sts. (30sts)
Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (24sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 8sts. (20sts)
Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (16sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the shoe, but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern progresses.

Switch to Color (B) for all variations

Rnd 12: In BLO: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
Rnds 13-31: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 19 Rnds)
Rnd 32: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
The 3sts worked in Rnd 32 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed tog horizontally with the foot facing forward. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case. Sc the two edges tog across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the leg to the body.

Hand and Arm

Arms for the Crochet Graduation Gnome in burgundy with gold stripes and tan skin.

Make 2

Using Color (A) for all variations

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, 3dcbo in the next st, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts).
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand.

Switch to Color (B) for all variations

Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (D) for all variations

Rnd 10: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
Rnds 11: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (B) for all variations

Rnd 12: Sl st in the next st (counts as a st), sc in the next 11sts. (12sts)
Rnds 13-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 5 Rnds)
Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)

Lightly stuff the arm, leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.

Press the tube flat, so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed tog If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, and sc the two edges tog across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the arm to the body.

Hair

There are three options for hair: a beard, braids, or curls. Only one option is needed.

Beard

Using Color (C)

Double image showing a crochet hook inserted into a graduation gnome's body to loop the beard strands and then the finished beard. — **Image Left:** The bottom row of the beard. **Image Right:** The full beard added to the body.

Cut 60, 6-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).
Holding two strands tog, loop yarn lengths around the sts onto the body. Placement: On Rnd 21, place 4 loops directly under the nose and 3 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23, place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side, and then move outward. On Rnd 25, place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.

Braids

Using Color (E)

>Design Note: The braids are made directly on the body.

Triplicate image showing the braids being seamlessly added to the Graduation Gnome on the right side of the body. — **Image Left:** The hook is inserted to make the first strand. **Image Center:** The first strand is made, and the hook is inserted to begin the second strand. **Image Right:** The second strand is made, and the hook is inserted to begin the third strand.

Braid on the Right Side

Row 1: On Rnd 28 of the body, approx 5sts away from the nose, with the body held upside down, insert the hook from the direction of the head towards the bottom of the body, fastening on with a sl st (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (33sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (33sts)
Row 3: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (33sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Braid on the Left Side

Triplicate image showing the braids being seamlessly added to the Graduation Gnome on the left side of the body. — **Image Left:** The hook is inserted to make the first strand. **Image Center:** The first strand is made, and the hook is inserted to begin the second strand. **Image Right:** The second strand is made, and the hook is inserted to begin the third strand.

Row 1: On Rnd 28 of the body, approx 2sts away from the nose (>Design Note: This st should be equal distance from the nose on the left side as the final st on the right side so the braids are centered with the nose on either side), with the body held upside down, insert the hook from the direction of the head towards the bottom, of the body, fastening on with a sl st (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (33sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. (33sts)
Row 3: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (33sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the head towards the bottom of the body, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Braid the Strands Together and Secure

Duplicate image showing the finished strands of brown hair on the body followed by them being braided and tied with grey yarn. — **Image Left:** Strands of hair before they are braided. **Image Right:** Strands of hair after they have been braided and secured.

Braid the three strands tog Using a long length of Color (D), tack and wrap the base of the braid, leaving approx 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) of the three braided strands sticking out from the bottom of the wrap. Use a tapestry needle to weave the end back into the back side of the wrapping several times to secure it, then fasten off.

>Design Options: The braids could also be tied tog using ribbon, a single piece of yarn, or a string tied in a bow.

Curly Hair

A miniature crocheted graduation gnome in brown and gold sits on a small overturned teacup with a bowl of yarn and mug full of scissors in the background.

Using Color (E)

>Design Note: The curls are made directly on the body. See images for the braid if help is needed to locate where the hook is placed.

Curls on the Right Side

Row 1: On Rnd 28 of the body, approx 5sts away from the nose, with the body held upside down, insert the hook from the direction of the head towards the bottom, fastening on with a sl st (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the head to the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 3: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the head to the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st to the left, towards the nose, again from the top to the bottom of the body, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Curls on the Left Side

Row 1: On Rnd 28 of the body, approx 2sts away from the nose (>Design Note: This st should be equal distance from the nose on the left side as the final st on the right side so the curls are centered with the nose on either side), with the body held upside down, insert the hook from the direction of the head towards the bottom, fastening on with a sl st (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the top to the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 3: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the top to the bottom of the body, ch 34, Working in the back bars of the ch: 2hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 30ch, hdc in the next 3sts. (63sts)
Row 4: Sl st in the next st to the left, away from the nose, again from the top to the bottom of the body, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

>Design Options: The curls can be left straight, or they can be decorated with a ribbon, a single piece of yarn, or a string tied in a bow.

Cap

Crochet Graduation Cap in burgundy with a gold tassel sitting on a wooden background.

>Design Note: The cap is made in several pieces: the base, the top, the button, and the tassel, which are then stitched tog.

Cap Base

Base of the graduation cap crocheted in burgundy yarn.

Make 1

Using Color (B) for all variations

>Design Note: The cap base is made from the top down to the brim; the square top is made separately and attached later.

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 9: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (48sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)
Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (51sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts] 3 times. (54sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (54sts)
Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (57sts)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (57sts)
Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 9sts] 3 times. (60sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (63sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 10sts] 3 times. (66sts)
Rnd 21: Sl st in each st around. (66sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish, leaving a long tail to stitch the cap base to the body.

Cap Top

Make 1

Using Color (B) for all variations

>Design Note: The cap top begins by working on both sides of the foundation ch.

Ch 31
Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark this as the starting st) and in the next 28ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 28ch, 2sc in the next ch. (62sts)
Rnds 2-16: Sc in each st around. (62sts for 15 Rnds)
Do not fasten off; continue with forming the top.

The cap top after Rnd 1-16 are finished, and then the pouch pulled at the sides to form the top of the cap. — **Image Left:** Rnds 1-16 are completed. **Image Right:** The left and right sides of the piece are pulled out to begin flattening the piece.

Duplicate image showing the top of the graduation cap after being shaped and flattened and then the working loop crocheted from the center to the edge of the top. — **Image Left:** The piece is flattened with the seams in the center, forming a square. **Image Right:** The piece is crocheted to the edge.

With the starting st/working loop at the top (or bottom) of the piece, pull the right and left sides of the piece out and flatten it so the seams meet in the center, forming a square. Then return to the working loop and sc to the edge of the piece. (approx 17sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the center tog.

Triplicate image showing seaming the top of the cap together. — **Image Left and Center:** Inserting the needle into the outside stitches for seaming. **Image Right:** The cap top is fully seamed tog.

Line up the sts on either side of the seam, then with the tail threaded with a tapestry needle, take the single loop closest to the outside of the seam on one side and then the furthest loop on the other side and seam them tog, continue across to close the seam.

Top Button for the Cap

Circular, crocheted, burgundy button for the graduation cap.

Make 1

Using Color (B) for all variations

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnd 3: Sl st in each st around. (9sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish, leaving a long tail to stitch the button to the hat. Weave in the starting tail.

Tassel

Make 1

Using Color (D) for all variations

>Design Note: Tassels can be made in a variety of ways. Below, a piece of cardboard is used, but there are also actual tassel makers, or you could even wrap it around your hand.

Cut a piece of cardboard 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall by approx 4 inches (10 cm) wide (the width can be larger or smaller as desired, it just needs to be wide enough to hold all the wraps).

Duplicate image showing the tassel beginning to be wrapped and then wrapped around a piece of cardboard. — **Image Left:** The yarn tail is at the bottom of the piece of cardboard, ready for wrapping. **Image Right:** The yarn is wrapped to make the tassel.

Starting with the yarn tail at the bottom of the piece of cardboard (the part that is 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) tall), wrap the yarn around the cardboard approx 30 times (more for a larger, thicker tassel, fewer for a smaller, skinnier tassel), with the wraps really close and on top of each other, ending again at the bottom of the piece of cardboard, cut the yarn tail flush with the cardboard.

Triplicate image showing yarn wrapped around cardboard, tied, and ready to cut for making the tassel. — **Image Left:** An additional length of yarn is slipped under all the wraps to form the tassel. **Image Center:** The additional length of yarn is knotted at the top of the wrapped yarn. **Image Right:** The bottom of the wraps is being cut to remove them from the cardboard.

Cut a length of yarn approx 20 inches (50 cm) long. Put the piece of yarn under all the wraps, then pull it up to the top of the piece of cardboard, even up the yarn ends, and securely knot the yarn around the yarn wraps a couple of times. If it’s helpful, a tapestry needle can be used to get under all the yarn strands.
Using a good pair of scissors, at the base of the cardboard, slip the scissors along the cardboard, under all the wraps of yarn, and cut the wraps free from the cardboard.

Duplicate image showing the tassel head needing tied and then tied. — **Image Left:** An additional length of yarn is placed under the tassel strands to form the neck and head of the tassel. **Image Right:** The length of yarn is knotted, forming the neck and head of the tassel.

Duplicate image showing the yarn tails of the tassels being inserted up through and back down through the head of the tassel. — **Image Left:** The yarn tails used to form the neck of the tassel are threaded back up into the head. **Image Right:** The yarn tails are threaded down through the head and neck, back into the fringe of the tassel.

Cut a length of yarn approx 20 inches (50 cm) long. Position this under all the tassel strands, approx. 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the top, and securely tie a knot. Optionally, for a thicker wrap, hold the lengths of this yarn piece tog and wrap around the tassel strands 1-2 more times. Either way, then thread one of the tails with a tapestry needle and weave it under the wrap into the tassel’s head and then back down into the tassel strands. Repeat with the other tail.

Duplicate image showing the tassel needing trimmed and the finished tassel. — **Image Left:** The fringe on the tassel is cut evenly. **Image Right:** The finished tassel.

Now trim the tassel’s strands so they are even.
That is all for now. More will be done when assembling the cap.

>Miniature Tassel Note: The miniature tassel is made the same way as the large tassel, but on a smaller scale. Use a 2-inch piece of cardboard wrapped 15 times.

Assembly

Assemble the Cap

Triplicate image showing the placement, stitching, and finishing of the button added to the top of the graduation cap. — **Image Left:** The button is centered on the cap top, ready to stitch. **Image Center:** The button is stitched to the center of the cap’s top, only near the center of the button. **Image Right:** The button is fully stitched to the cap’s top.

Place the cap’s button on the top center of the cap’s top (>Design Note: the seam on the cap’s top should be on the underside). Stitch the button to the cap on the underside of the button, only near the center. This ensures that the edges are left free to add the tassel.

Duplicate image showing to top of the graduation cap pinned to the base and then showing it being stitched. — **Image Left:** The top of the cap is pinned to the base of the cap. **Image Right:** Stitching the top of the cap to the base of the cap.

I found the next part to be easier to stitch if the cap is on the body, but note that the cap is not yet stitched to the body. Place the cap base on the body, then center the cap top over the base, and pin it into place. Using a separate length of Color (B) for all variations, stitch the top to the base using the unused front loops at Rnd 9 of the base and catching sts on the underside of the cap’s top.

Needle threaded with gold yarn being inserted down near the button of a crochet graduation hat to add the tassel. — **Image Description:** Stitching the tassel under the side of the cap’s button.

Add the tassel. Note that when the cap is stitched to the body, the corners will face forward, backward, and to the right and left. Therefore, when adding the tassel, do so in the direction of the right or left corner of the hat. Thread both yarn tails into a tapestry needle, then insert the needle under the side of the cap’s button (pictured, it’s on the right), down into the cap, adjust the tassel to the desired length for the hat (pictured approx 2.75 inches/ 6.9 cm of the tails were left showing on the outside of the cap, the length of the tassel being approx 2.5 inches/6.4 cm, so a total of approx 5.25 inches/13 cm showing), then secure the tails on the inside of the cap by weaving the tails through several sts. >Design Option: To keep the tassel so it can be removed or turned more easily, tie a knot in the tails at the desired length for the tassel, cutting off any additional length. Then, because the button was stitched only in the center, the tassel can be looped around the button.

>Miniature Cap Assembly Note: When adding the tassel, the thread tail left on the outside of the cap is approx 1 inch/2.5 cm long, with the tassel itself trimmed to be approx 1 inch/2.5 cm long, so a total of approx 2 inches/5 cm showing.

Assemble the Body

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Crochet Graduation Gnome and stitch securely in place.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

Side view of the Crochet Graduation Gnome, pinned together for assembly.

Arms: The arms are attached to either side of the body approx 10-11 stitches away from the edge of the nose on either side, with the top point resting at approx Rnd 19 of the body (the same color as the arm, where the front loops are showing) and the bottom resting at approx Rnd 13. The thumbs on the hands should be facing up. Look at the Crochet Graduation Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm. If desired, the arm can be tacked in additional places to keep it closer to the body.

Bottom view of the Crochet Graduation Gnome, pinned together for assembly.

Legs: Ensuring that the legs are centered with the face and facing forward, pin the legs side by side approx two rows in front of the MR on the base of the body. Attach each leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and at the top of each side of the leg for a couple of rows, so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.

A Crochet Graduation Gnome with tan skin and a white beard, dressed in deep charcoal and red, sits on an overturned red ceramic bowl on a wooden background.

Cap: Making sure that the personally designated front point of the top of the cap is pointing forward and centered with the face, pull the cap down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose, covering the top of the beard/braids/curls. Use the tail from the cap’s base and a tapestry needle to invisibly tack it to the body in several places so that it cannot be removed. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable.

A View of the Back

Back view of the Crochet Graduation Gnome in royal blue and silver, sitting on an overturned striped bowl surrounded by yarn balls and decor items.

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!

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