Large Crochet Alligator

Meet your new favorite handmade companion—a charming Large Crochet Alligator full of personality and playful detail. This unique design features accented hands and feet, rows of textured spikes on its tail, and a striped tummy that brings a pop of color and whimsy. Its sculpted, moody eyes give it a hint of attitude and expression that make this gator truly come to life.

Whether it is to be displayed as a cute decor piece or loved as someone’s new toy, this alligator is a delightful project that’s as enjoyable to make as it is to show off.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Large Crochet Alligator or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

This year, I’ve begun working through the alphabet, creating an animal for every letter. The plan is to make both a small, quick version and a larger version of each animal.

In our family, A is most definitely for alligator, and there is a story behind it. When our children were quite young, we all went to Toys R Us (a large toy store) around Christmas time to look at toys to get ideas for Christmas. It was fun to watch their eyes light up as they saw all the options in the flowing aisles of toys, dolls, bikes, games, and more. This was not a store that we had taken them to before, and they were definitely excited, perhaps overwhelmed, by all the possibilities.

All was good until we said that it was time to go, and this is where the alligator comes into the story. Our youngest daughter, who was about four at the time, had found a stuffed alligator that she now 100% adored. We told her that she had to put it back, and she tried so hard, but ultimately melted down.

Tears poured from her eyes as she held tightly to this alligator, proclaiming that it was her baby and she needed it to come home with us. This was not like her typical behavior at all, and my husband and I tried not to laugh or smile to avoid further escalating the situation.

We explained that it had to stay, but she could put it on her Christmas list. I brought the other kids out to the car while my husband both talked with her and secretly stashed the alligator behind some other stuffed toys because he didn’t see another one like it in the store. We knew what she would be getting for Christmas, but she had to wait, and we could hopefully make it back before this one was found by someone else.

She cried all the way to the car and all the way home about having to leave her alligator at the store. In her little mind, the cost was extreme; she had abandoned her baby. For a while, she was still quite upset when she thought about it.

My husband went back the next day without the kids and thankfully, found the alligator where he had stashed it, and when Christmas came, she was obviously excited to have her baby. She named it Cherry and still adores it to this day. Since then, a few other alligators have joined the family, but none hold the memory for all of us as the story of Cherry.

So, yes, A is for Alligator, and this one is designed to add to her carefully curated, but growing congregation. I hope that you also enjoy the design and can create beautiful stories for your alligators, too.

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The Yarn

The Large Crochet Alligator was made using Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn. It is a worsted-weight, size 4, softer acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles. It can be purchased at Hobby Lobby, in-store or online, and at the time of writing, on Amazon. I like that I can get it locally, so you may see it being used even more in my designs.

One thing to note about Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn is that they do have a dye lot, so if you are working on a larger project, you will want to buy all the yarn you need to complete the project. I’ve found that colors can be pretty consistent from dye lot to dye lot, but they may not be an exact match. For this design, the main color, green, uses approx. 285 yards (260 m), so less than a full skein, so this issue doesn’t arise unless you’re trying to use up several scrap skeins.

The colors used in the design for the green are Dark Olive, Light Sage, and Mid Green. The tummy, hand, and feet accent colors used are Light Taupe (a deeper golden yellow, leaning towards brown), Cream (which, in my opinion, is more of a soft yellow), and Buttercup (which is very similar to the Cream, but a touch more yellow and vibrant). Honestly, the accent could really be just about any color, traditional or not, to mix things up, customize it to the recipient, use up scrap yarn, and change the personality. I’m so excited to see what you will do!

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Large Crochet Alligator, but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version in some of the images. He was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

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The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

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Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Pins
• Tapestry Needle
• Safety eyes, 15 mm brown
• Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Hobby Lobby, I Love This Yarn (worsted 4-Medium, 100% Acrylic, 355 yds/325 m, 7 oz/199 g), Color (A) Dark Olive OR Light Sage OR Mid Green, used approx. 285 yds/260 m, Color (B) Light Taupe OR Cream OR Buttercup, used approx. 35 yds/32 m, Color (C) Linen, used approx. 15 yds/14 m
• Shown in the images, the color combinations used include 1. Dark Olive, Light Taupe, and Linen, 2. Light Sage, Cream, and Linen, and 3. Mid Green, Buttercup, and Linen.

• The miniature version of the Large Crochet Alligator shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, Olive, Color (B): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Lemon, and Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Eggnog. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 7 mm safety eyes or embroider them.

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Gauge

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 2 1/8 inches (5.4 cm) in diameter.
• Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the body measure approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.

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Finished Measurements

• Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Large Crochet Alligator measures approx. 9.5 inches (24 cm) tall in the sitting position. 
• Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the miniature version of the Large Crochet Alligator measures approx. 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) tall in the sitting position. (See the Materials section for more details.)

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Design Notes

• The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
• Caution! If using safety eyes, consider who will be using the item. Safety eyes are not recommended for children under three or those prone to putting things in their mouths, as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
• For more details about making the miniature version of the Large Crochet Alligator, see the Materials section.

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Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• approx.  – approximately
• back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
• bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
• ch(s) – chain(s)
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
• Rnd(s) – round(s)
• Row(s) – row(s)
• RS – right side
• sc – single crochet 
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease unless otherwise noted)
• sk – skip
• sl st – slip stitch
• sp – space
• standing sc – standing single crochet
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• surface stitching
• tog. – together
• WS – wrong side
• yo – yarn over (or yarn under, based on the technique being used)
• [ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed
• * – repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

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Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): A 4dcbo (four double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. 

To create a 4dcbo

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook),
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook),
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10.  Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
11.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook),
12.  Yarn over and pull through two loops (four legs made, five loops on the hook),
13.  Yarn over and pull through all five loops. (4dcbo completed)

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Let’s Make Our Large Crochet Alligator!

Legs

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The legs begin by working around both sides of the foundation ch, and are worked from the bottom up. 

• Ch 8
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark as the starting st), sc in the next 5ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 5ch, 2sc in the next ch. (16sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next 2sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in the next 5sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times. (28sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 6sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 2 times. (34sts)  

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, “claws” will be added by switching colors and using bo sts. When switching colors, there is no need to cut the yarn each time; simply drop and pick up colors as needed. >Design Option: To simplify the pattern, create “toes” instead of claws by omitting the color changes, working Rnd 5 all in Color (A). 

• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 10sts, [Switch to Color (C): 4dcbo in the next st, Switch to Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 12sts. (34sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (34sts) 
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in the next 12sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 11sts. (25sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 6sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 9sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 7sts. (16sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the foot and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnds 11-13: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 5sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times, sc in the next 4sts. (21sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnds 18-20: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 6sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (6sts) >Design Note: The 6sts should place the work at the outside edge of the leg in preparation for flattening the top and seaming it together. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve this placement.
• Close the Leg: Press the top front and back edges tog., with the working loop on the right of the work. Line up the sts, and sc the edges tog. (9sts) >Design Tip: Add additional stuffing as needed before closing up the last few sts.
• Fasten off.

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Arms

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The arms are worked from the bottom up.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, “claws” will be added by switching colors and using bo sts. When switching colors, there is no need to cut the yarn each time; simply drop and pick up colors as needed. >Design Option: To simplify the pattern, create “fingers” instead of claws by omitting the color changes, working Rnd 6 all in Color (A). 

• Rnd 6: Sc in the next 10sts, [Switch to Color (C): 4dcbo in the next st, Switch to Color (A): sc in the next 2sts] 4 times, sc in the next 8sts. (30sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog, sc in the next st] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (25sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (22sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (20sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 2 times. (18sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the arm, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses, lightly stuffing the last 4 Rnds so they lie flatter to the body when seamlessly joining the arm. 

• Rnds 11-18: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 8 Rnds) 
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times. (16sts)
• Rnds 20-25: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 6 Rnds) 
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnds 27-32: Sc in each st around. (14sts for 6 Rnds)
• Close the arm: The working st should be at the front center of the arm. Add or remove sts as needed to obtain this position. Press the top front and back edges tog. with the working loop on the right of the work. Line up the sts, and sc the edges tog. (7sts)
• Fasten off.

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Body

Make 1

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up, seamlessly joining the legs and arms as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 6 times. (72sts)

In the next Rnd the legs are seamlessly joined to the body.

• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times, join the left leg to the body: With the working loop on the hook and the foot facing towards you, insert the hook into the far right of the foot from the front to the back, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the leg and body sts tog. for the next 8sts, on the body: sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, join the right leg to the body: with the working loop on the hook and the foot facing towards you, insert the hook into the far right of the foot from the front to the back, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the leg, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the leg and body sts tog. for the next 8sts, on the body: 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (78sts)  

>Design Note: In the following Rnds, the color will change several times to create the colored tummy. Either the technique of using long floats between color changes or cutting and starting the new color each time can be used. 

>Design Option: The color changes can be omitted to simplify the pattern and make an all-green alligator.

• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 26sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 25sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 27sts. (78sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in the next 26sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 26sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 26sts. (78sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 26sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 27sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 25sts. (78sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in the next 26sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 28sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 24sts. (78sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (72sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 24sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 27sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 21sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (72sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 24sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 28sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 20sts. (72sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in the next 22sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 27sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 17sts. (66sts)
• Rnd 27: Sc in each st around. (66sts)
• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times, Switch to Color (B): [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 6sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog. (60sts)
• Rnd 29: Sc in each st around. (60sts)
• Rnd 30: Sc in the next 20sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 27sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 13sts. (60sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 18sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 25sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 11sts. (54sts)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in the next 16sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 24sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 8sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 36: Sc in the next 14sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 22sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 6sts. (42sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 38: Sc in the next 12sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 20sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 4sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 39: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 40:  Sc in the next 12sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc in the next 21sts, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 3sts. (36sts)

In the next Rnd the arms are seamlessly joined to the body. 

• Rnd 41: Sc in the next 9sts, join the left arm to the body: With the working loop on the hook and the arm facing forward, insert the hook into the far right of the arm from the front to the back, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts tog. for the next 6sts, on the body: sc in the next 13sts, join the right arm to the body: with the working loop on the hook and the arm facing forward, insert the hook into the far right of the arm from the front to the back, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the RS to the WS of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the arm, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the arm and body sts tog. for the next 6sts. (36sts)  
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts, Switch to Color (B): Sc2tog, [sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 2 times, Switch to Color (A): Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog. (30sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 44: Sc in the next 4sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (4sts) These 4sts leave the work at the back of the body. 
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the head to the body.  

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Head

Make 1

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The head is worked from the front of the snout to the back of the head.

• Ch 12
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 9ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 10ch. (24sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (30sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 4sts, 4dcbo, sc in the next 9sts, 4dcbo, sc in the next 19sts. (34sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts] 2 times. (36sts)   
• Rnds 7-8: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)   
• Rnds 10-11: Sc in each st around. (39sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts] 3 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)   
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (45sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts] 3 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 19-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (51sts)   
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts] 3 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts) 
• Rnd 26: Sc in the next 8sts, [2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 7 times, sc in the next 23sts. (73sts)
• Rnds 27-31: Sc in each st around. (73sts for 5 Rnds)
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 71sts, sc2tog. (72sts)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (54sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the snout and head, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 38: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 40: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 41: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 43: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed. Then, secure the end and weave it in.

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Eyes

Make 2

Using Color (C)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts) >Design Tip: Don’t close the MR too tightly, as the safety eyes will be inserted into it. 
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the eye to the head.
• Insert the safety eye into the center of the MR. 

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Eyelids

Make 2

Using Color (A)

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in rows. 

• Leaving a long starting tail for stitching the eyelid to the head, Ch 12.
• Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in 2nd from hook, hdc in the next 9ch, sc in the next ch. (11sts)
• Ensure that the ch goes horizontally across the center of the eye, and is able to cover from edge to edge so it can be stitched to the head during assembly. If not, or if too large, start over, adjusting your tension to make it fit. >Design Tip: It may be helpful to begin pinning the entire alligator tog. for assembly to ensure a proper fit.
• Row 2: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, hdc in the next 7sts, sc2tog. (9sts)
• Row 3: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, hdc in the next 5sts, sc2tog. (7sts)
• Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, hdc in the next 3sts, sc2tog. (5sts)
• Row 5: Turn, ch 1, sc2tog, hdc in the next st, sc2tog. (3sts)
• Fasten off. Weave in this tail.

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Tail

Make 1

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (9sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (15sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (21sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 3 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (27sts)
• Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 3 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
• Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (33sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 3 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (39sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (39sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the tail and continue to do so as the pattern progresses. 

• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts] 3 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (42sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (45sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching the tail to the body.

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Assembly

Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Large Crochet Alligator and stitch securely in place. Remember to add additional stuffing before closing the holes to fill in the gaps as appropriate.

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Head: Position the head so it is centered on the body with the back of the head flush with the back of the neck.

• Eyes: Stuff the eyes (if easier, this can be done right before closing the hole). Place the eyes centered on the head and aligned with the snout, with the bottom at approx. Rnd 19 of the head and the top at approx. Rnd 27, with approx. 2-3sts between the eyes.
• Eyelids: Place the eyelids over the tops of the eyes so the widest part rests slightly overlapping the top of the safety eye. The very back rests between approx. Rnds 29-30 of the head. Stitch along the bottom edges of the eyelid, leaving the widest edge at the front unstitched. Pictured, no stuffing was added under the eyelids.
• Tail: Attach the tail to the back center of the body with the bottom resting at approx. Rnd 8 of the body and the top at approx. Rnd 27.

• 1-3 Rows of Spikes: (optional) Using Color (A), and leaving a tail long enough to sew in, sl st into the bottom center of the tail at approx. Rnd 2, *sk the next Rnd, [hdc, dc, hdc] in the next Rnd (all in the same sp), sk the next Rnd, sl st in the next 2 Rnds, repeat from * to the base of the head. (9 spikes, but it’s okay if this varies) >Design Tip: If helpful, place rows of pins to follow up the back while stitching to help keep the line straighter. Begin with the center line of pins, create the spikes, then place pins for the other two lines of spikes and create those. Pictured, there are approx. 2-3sts between the rows of spikes.

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piec