Crochet Beaver

Two large and one small crocheted beaver sit on sticks with yarn skeins blurred in the background.

Enjoy adding a touch of woodland charm to your crochet collection with this adorable Crochet Beaver! Featuring a chunky body and contrasting tummy panel, hands and feet with digits, buck teeth, a button nose, an oversized tail, tiny ears, and delightfully chunky “cankles,” this lovable amigurumi is full of personality from head to toe. Every detail has been thoughtfully designed to capture the playful character of one of nature’s hardest-working animals while also keeping the project fun and enjoyable to make.

Whether you’re crocheting a gift for an animal lover, adding to your own handmade woodland collection, or simply looking for a cuddly new friend to create, this beaver is sure to bring smiles. Customize your beaver with your favorite color combinations, add your own creative touches, and enjoy bringing this charming little critter to life, one stitch at a time.

Read on to learn more about the inspiration and yarn choice for the Crochet Beaver or scroll down to the bottom to find the free pattern.

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The Inspiration

Two large crocheted beavers sit side by side on a wooden background.

B is for Beaver. I’m working through the alphabet, choosing an animal to design for every letter. If you haven’t already, I hope that you’ll join along. In fact, you’ll find both a small option and a large option for each letter so that if you prefer one design over the other, or just have more or less time, there’s always an option. And, of course, always feel free to make both!

Small A Design: Small Alligator (also makes a great keychain)
Large A Design: Large Alligator
Small B Design: Beaver Egg (part of a whole collection of Animal Eggs)

Why a beaver? Why not! In actuality, when I googled “animals that start with b” the first on the list were bears and bats. You can already find at least a couple of designs for each of these animals on the blog, so I went with the third option, the beaver, because honestly, at the time the others on the list, like bison and bamboo didn’t sound like something I currently wanted to design. Gotta make what you love!

If you have suggestions for upcoming letters, please feel free to leave them in the comments. I love your feedback. I don’t promise to design everything that everyone suggests, but I do keep a list of requests and refer to it when making decisions for what to design next. Thanks for your support!

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Collage images of the Crochet Beaver in various shades of brown yarn. Text overlay, "Crochet Animals Beaver, JenHayesCreaions.com."

These “B” Patterns May Also Be of Interest!

Six variations of the Crochet Beaver Egg, five regular and one miniature, sitting on a bundle of sticks and bowls full of yarn. — Beaver Egg

Three different sizes of the Small Crochet Amigurumi Bear rest in a woman's palm with baskets of yarn in the background. — Beaver Egg

The Yarn

Front view of a large crocheted beaver in various shades of brown and off white sitting next to a mugs of crochet hooks and various shades of brown yarn skeins.

The Crochet Beaver was made using Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn. It is a worsted-weight, size 4, softer acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles. It can be purchased at Hobby Lobby, in-store or online, and at the time of writing, on Amazon. I like that I can get it locally, so you may see it being used even more in my designs.

One thing to note about Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn is that they do have a dye lot, so if you are working on a larger project, you will want to buy all the yarn you need to complete the project. I’ve found that colors can be pretty consistent from dye lot to dye lot, but they may not be an exact match. For this design, the main color, uses approx. 350 yards (320 m), so just less than a full skein, so this issue doesn’t arise unless you’re trying to use up several scrap skeins.

The colors used in the design include brown, dark brown, cream, and white, so lots of neutrals. That said, go wild with the options you already have in your stash or find at the store. Neutral doesn’t mean boring. I’ve made this guy three times now, but if I make him again, I think I might go with a flecked yarn or something totally abstract.

The specific colors you’ll see in the images include Toasted Almond OR Latte for Color (A) which is the main parts of the body; Brown for Color (B), which is the hands, feet, nose, and tail; Linen for Color (C), which is the tummy panel and muzzle; and Antique White for Color (D), for the teeth. (See the pattern for all the specifics).

I kept it simple, switching out only the main color, but honestly, this guy can be as varied as the yarn options you choose to use. I’m so excited to see what you will do!

A large crocheted beavers sits on a wooden background.

Substitutions

Any brand of worsted-weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the Crochet Beaver but note that due to variations among brands, the finished size may vary slightly. Also note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are the same to ensure consistency in stitching.

If cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine. You can see the miniature version of the Crochet Beaver in some of the images. He was made using the same pattern, a 1.50 mm hook, and size 10 cotton crochet thread.

A small crocheted beaver sits on a wooden table next to a brown mug full of wooden crochet hooks with baskets full of brown shades of yarn in the background.

Other yarn sizes are a great option; just switch up your hook size to accommodate your yarn choice. Would you agree that this chunky fellow would be SO cute in chunky yarn?!!

As always, I’d love to see/hear about your experiences with making the design and the products you chose to use. Tag me on social media @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to share!

The Pattern

Two large crocheted beavers sit side by side with a miniature version of the same beaver sitting on their center arms.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) (I use Clover Amour hooks)
Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Stuffing
Pins
Tapestry Needle
Safety eyes, 16 mm
Dritz Disc Needle Pullers (optional)
Chopstick, dowel, tweezers, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
I Love This Yarn (worsted 4-Medium, 100% Acrylic, 355 yds/325 m, 7 oz/199 g), Color (A) Toasted Almond OR Latte used approx. 350 yds/320 m; Color (B) Brown, used approx. 208 yds/190 m; Color (C) Linen, used approx. 46 yds/42 m; Color (D) Antique White, used approx. 8 yds/7 m
The miniature Crochet Beaver shown in some of the images was made using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread. Color (A): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Topaz; Color (B): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Tawny; Color (C): Hobby Lobby Artiste #10 thread, Natural; Color (D): Aunt Lydia’s #10 thread, White. The same pattern is used with a minor change: use 8 mm safety eyes.

A small crocheted beaver sits on a wooden table with wooden baskets full of yarn and a mug of wooden crochet hooks in the background.

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the first 6 Rnds of the head measure approx. 2 inches (5.1 cm) in diameter.
Using hook size 1.5 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the first 6 Rnds of the head measure approx. 13/16 inch (2.06 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) and worsted yarn, the Crochet Beaver measures approx. 11 inches (28 cm) tall in the sitting position to the tip of the ear.
Using hook size 1.50 mm and size 10 crochet thread, the Miniature Crochet Beaver measures approx. 4.75 inches (12 cm) tall in the sitting position to the tip of the ear. (See the Materials section for more details.)

Design Notes

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.
The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round. When working in rows, it will be noted in the pattern.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
Further design notes, tips, and options will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.
For reference, when placing eyes and other facial features, the starting stitch is at the back of the work.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern.
Caution! If using safety eyes, consider who will be using the item. Safety eyes are not recommended for children under three or those prone to putting things in their mouths, as they may cause a choking hazard. Crocheted or hand-embroidered eyes are a great alternative!
For more details about making the Miniature Crochet Beaver, see the Materials section.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

approx – approximately
back bar of the ch/back ridge – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch
ch(s) – chain(s)
dec – decrease
MR – magic ring (aka magic circle, adjustable ring)
Rnd(s) – round(s)
Row(s) – row(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use invisible decrease unless otherwise directed)
sl st – slip stitch
standing sc – standing single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog – together
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over (or yarn under, based on the technique being used)
[ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets/parentheses as many times as directed
Stitching pieces tog and some hand embroidery

Small crocheted beaver sitting on a wooden table, its arms reaching forward, with a big buck tooth.

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Let’s Make Our Crochet Beaver!

A small crocheted beaver sits in front of a large crocheted beaver, both sitting on sticks with yarn skeins and crochet hooks in the background.

Head & Body

Peanut shaped body for the Crochet Beaver in medium brown yarn, sitting on a wooden background.

Make 1

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The head & body are made from the top down.

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (66sts)
Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 6 times. (72sts)
Rnds 13-15: Sc in each st around. (72sts for 3 Rnds)
Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 8 times. (80sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around. (80sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (88sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (88sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 8 times. (96sts)
Rnds 22-26: Sc in each st around. (96sts for 5 Rnds)
Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts] 6 times. (90sts)
Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 13sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (84sts)
Rnd 29: Sc in each st around. (84sts)
Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts] 6 times. (78sts)
Rnd 31: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (72sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in each st around. (72sts)

Insert the safety eyes. Suggested placement is between Rnds 16 and 17, approx 12sts apart.

Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts] 8 times. (80sts)
Rnd 35: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (88sts)
Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 5sts] 8 times. (96sts)
Rnds 37-56: Sc in each st around. (96sts for 20 Rnds)
Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts] 8 times. (88sts)
Rnds 58-61: Sc in each st around. (88sts for 4 Rnds)
Rnd 62: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (80sts)
Rnd 63: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 8 times. (72sts)
Rnd 64: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (64sts)
Rnd 65: Sc in each st around. (64sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the head and body, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 66: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 8 times. (56sts)
Rnd 67: Sc in each st around. (56sts)
Rnd 68: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (48sts)
Rnd 69: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnd 70: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 71: Sc in each st around. (36sts)
Rnd 72: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 73: Sc in each st around. (30sts)
Rnd 74: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 75: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 76: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Rnd 77: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the nose to the muzzle and add a bit of hand embroidery.

Muzzle

Make 1

Using Color (C)

Ch 12.

>Design Note: In the next Rnd, sts are worked around both sides of the foundation ch.

Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 9ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 10ch. (24sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next 3sts, sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st. (30sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st. (34sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (38sts)
Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around. (38sts for 3 Rnds)
Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the muzzle to the body.

Teeth

Make 1

Using Color (D)

>Design Note: The teeth are not stuffed.

Ch 7.

In the next Rnd, sts are worked around both sides of the foundation ch.

Rnd 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (mark the first st as the starting st), sc in the next 4ch, 3sc in the next ch (final st completed, corner rounded, and the first st on the other side of the ch worked), Working on the other side of the ch: sc in the next 5ch. (14sts)
Rnds 2-5: Sc in each st around. (14sts for 4 Rnds)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked. (1st) This single st should put the working loop at the edge of the teeth in preparation to stitch the tops tog. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve desired placement.
With the working loop at the right edge of the work, press the top edges tog, and sc them tog. (7sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the teeth to the muzzle and add a bit of hand embroidery.

Ears

Make 2

Using Color (A)

>Design Note: The ears are not stuffed.

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the ear to the head.

Hand & Arm

Two crocheted beaver arms in two shades of brown with three digits on each hand sitting on a wooden background.

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The hand begins with making three fingers, joining them tog to make the hand, and then finishing out the arm.

Fingers

Make 3 for each hand

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 3 times. (9sts)
Rnds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (9sts for 4 Rnds)
Firmly stuff and shape the finger. If the 1st or 2nd finger, fasten off, leaving a long tail for stitching. For all fingers, leave the starting st markers in place for later reference when joining the fingers tog. If the 3rd finger, do not fasten off; continue with joining the fingers tog and making the hand/arm.

Join the Fingers Together

>Design Note: The finger attached to the hook will now be referred to as the 1st finger, the next joined, the 2nd, and the final joined, the 3rd. The tails on the fingers (that will be used to stitch the gaps after joining) can be left all on the WS or all on the RS of the piece, as preferred for stitching.

Double image showing joining the second and third fingers together. — **Image Left:** Joining the first finger to the second finger. **Image Right:** Joining the second finger to the third finger.

Double image showing joining the second and third fingers together on the back side of the join. — **Image Left:** Joining the third finger to the second finger on the back side. **Image Right:** Joining the second finger to the first finger on the back side.

Brown, crocheted fingers fully joined together. — **Image Description:** Rnd 7 completed; all fingers are joined together.

Rnd 7: Join the 2nd finger: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 2nd finger, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (mark as the new starting st), sc in the next 4sts (if helpful, mark the next unworked st, to be referred to later when joining on the other side of the finger), join the 3rd finger: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 3rd finger (this st marker can now be removed), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 8sts, join back to the 2nd finger: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the closest unworked st (possibly marked previously), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 3sts, join back to the 1st finger: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 1st finger (this st marker can now be removed), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 8sts. (27sts)
Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 3 times (24sts)

Use the tails from the fingers to stitch the gaps left between the fingers when joining.

The gap between the fingers being stitched closed with a tapestry needle.

Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 4 times. (20sts)
Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around. (20sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 16: Sc in the next 13sts, Switch to Color (A): sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand portion. As the pattern progresses, stuff the arm portion about “half full,” so the arm can be pressed flatter to rest closer to the body. Leave approx the final 3 Rnds unstuffed.

Rnd 17: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 4 times. (24sts)
Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (26sts)
Rnds 19-39: Sc in each st around. (26sts for 21 Rnds)
Rnd 40: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts) These 3sts should place the working loop at the right edge of the work in preparation to stitch the top edges tog, add or remove sts to achieve the desired placement.
With the working loop at the right edge of the work, press the top edges tog, and sc the sides tog. (13sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the arm to the body.

Feet

Make 2

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The foot begins with making three toes, joining them tog, and then finishing out the foot.

Toes

Make 3 for each foot

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 3 times. (15sts)
If the 1st or 2nd toe, fasten off leaving a long tail for stitching. For all toes, leave the starting st markers in place for later reference when joining the toes tog. If the 3rd toe, do not fasten off; continue with joining and making the foot.

Join the Toes Together

>Design Note: The toe attached to the hook will now be referred to as the 1st toe, the next joined, the 2nd, and the final joined, the 3rd. The tails on the toes (that will be used to stitch the gaps after joining) can be left all on the WS or all on the RS of the piece, as preferred for stitching.

Double image showing joining the second and then third toes together. — **Image Left:** Joining the first toe to the second toe. **Image Right:** Joining the second toe to the third toe.

Double image showing joining the second and third toes together on the back side of the join. — **Image Left:** Joining the third toe to the second toe on the back side. **Image Right:** Joining the second toe to the first toe on the back side.

Brown, crocheted toes fully joined together. — **Image Description:** Rnd 7 completed; all toes are joined together.

Rnd 7: Join the 2nd toe: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 2nd toe, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops (mark as the new starting st), sc in the next 6sts (if helpful, mark the next unworked st, to be referred to later when joining on the other side of the toe), join the 3rd toe: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 3rd toe (this st marker can now be removed), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 14sts, join back to the 2nd toe: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the closest unworked st (possibly marked previously), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 7sts, join back to the 1st toe: with the working loop on the hook, insert the hook from the RS to the WS in the marked st of the 1st toe (this st marker can now be removed), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops, sc in the next 14sts. (45sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 9 times (36sts)

Use the tails from the toes to stitch the gaps left between the toes when joining.

The gap between the toes being stitched closed with a tapestry needle.

Rnds 9-11: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 3 Rnds)
Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 4 times (32sts)
Rnds 13-15: Sc in each st around. (32sts for 3 Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape the toes and foot, and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 4 times. (28sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around. (28sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 19: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 4 times (24sts)
Rnds 20-21: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 22: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next st] 6 times (18sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with a tapestry needle, stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

Legs

Make 2

Using Color (A)

Crocheted loop in medium brown being held on two fingers; the alternative option for the leg. — **Image Description:** Showing alternative leg option. Ch 18, join, and sc in each st around.

>Design Option: The first Rnd of the leg is made using surface sc on top of the foot to seamlessly create a base to work from. Alternatively, the leg can be started separately and then stitched to the foot. To do this, leave a long tail for stitching the leg to the foot, ch18, join to form a ring, and then for Rnd 1, sc in each st around (18sts). Then stitch this piece to the top of the foot with the tail at the back of the foot (see seamless leg directions below for placement). Continue, as directed, from Rnd 2.

Prepping the Foot to Seamlessly Add the Leg: Either side of the foot can be the top/bottom. Place pins on the top of the foot to outline an oval-like shape to make the leg. Pictured, the pins are at the back center of the foot at Rnd 21, 5 Rnds up from this at Rnd 16, and then two pins at Rnd 18, approx 4sts away from the other central placed pins, to identify the edges of the oval.

Triplicate image showing the foot pinned for leg placement, the crochet hook inserted to make the surface stitching, and the surface leg stitching completed. — **Image Left:** The pins are placed for surface stitching. **Image Middle:** The hook is inserted for surface stitching. **Image Right:** The surface stitching is completed.

Rnd 1: Beginning at the center back of the foot at Rnd 21 and using the pins as guidance, surface sc 18sts in an oval-like shape on the top of the foot. Mark the first of these as the starting st. (18sts) >Design Tip: When working the 18sts, 4sts are placed between each pin, with the remaining 2sts placed at the right and left where the pins were placed.
Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnds 5-18: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 14 Rnds)

The next section splits the leg to make directional right and left legs.

Right Leg

Rnd 19: Sc in the next 5sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (5sts) >Design Note: These 5sts should put the work at the back center of the leg. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve desired placement. To help with figuring out placement, note that 18sts are used for the outside of the leg and 18sts for the inside of the leg.

Work the next portion in rows to create the upper part of the leg. >Design Tip: Use a regular sc dec when working in rows.

Row 1: Turn, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st throughout), sc in the next 18sts. (18sts)
Row 2: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
Row 3: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog. (14sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog. (12sts)
Row 5: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
Row 6: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)

The next section is worked in the Rnd again to clean up the edges of the leg.

Rnd 1: Sc down the edge of the rows (6sts), sc across the inside of the leg (18sts), sc up the edge of the rows (6sts), across the top: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts). (36sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the leg to the body.
Firmly stuff and shape the leg.

Left Leg

Rnd 33: Remove the last 13sts of Rnd 32. (-13sts) >Design Note: These 13 removed sts should put the work at the front center of the leg. Add or remove sts as needed to achieve desired placement. To help with figuring out placement, note that 18sts are used for the outside of the leg and 18sts for the inside of the leg.

Work the next portion in rows to create the upper part of the leg. >Design Tip: Use a regular sc dec when working in rows.

Row 1: Turn, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st throughout), sc in the next 18sts. (18sts)
Row 2: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
Row 3: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog. (14sts)
Row 4: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog. (12sts)
Row 5: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog. (10sts)
Row 6: Turn, ch1, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)

The next section is worked in the Rnd again to clean up the edges of the leg.

Rnd 1: Sc down the edge of the rows (6sts), sc across the inside of the leg (18sts), sc up the edge of the rows (6sts), across the top: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog (6sts). (36sts)
Sl st to the first st and fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the leg to the body.
Firmly stuff and shape the leg.

Side view of a large crocheted beaver sitting next to a mugs of crochet hooks and various shades of brown yarn skeins.

Tail

Make 1

Using Color (B)

>Design Note: The tail is not stuffed.

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR. (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st, sc in the next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnds 8-9: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (60sts)
Rnds 17-21: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 5 Rnds)
Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts] 6 times. (54sts)
Rnds 23-24: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48sts)
Rnds 26-35: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 10 Rnds)
Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts] 6 times. (42sts)
Rnds 37-41: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 5 Rnds)
Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (36sts)
Rnds 43-44: Sc in each st around. (36sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 45: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts] 6 times. (30sts)
Rnds 46-47: Sc in each st around. (30sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24sts)
Rnds 49-51: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 3 Rnds)
With the working loop at the right edge of the work, flatten the tail, pressing the top edges tog, and sc the sides tog. (12sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the tail to the body.

Tummy Panel

Optional

Make 1

Using Color (C)

The tummy panel is made in turned rows. Turn and ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st) at the end of each row.

>Design Tip: When working in rows, use a regular sc dec.

Ch 13.
Row 1: Working in the back bars of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (12sts)
Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
Row 3: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)
Row 4: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (18sts)
Rows 5-6: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rows)
Row 7: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in the next st. (20sts)
Rows 8-9: Sc in each st around. (20sts for 2 Rows)
Row 10: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 18sts, 2sc in the next st. (22sts)
Rows 11-12: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 2 Rows)
Row 13: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 20sts, 2sc in the next st. (24sts)
Rows 14-16: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 3 Rows)
Row 17: Sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts, sc2tog. (22sts)
Rows 18-19: Sc in each st around. (22sts for 2 Rows)
Row 20: Sc2tog, sc in the next 18sts, sc2tog. (20sts)
Rows 21-22: Sc in each st around. (20sts for 2 Rows)
Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog. (18sts)
Rows 24-25: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rows)
Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next 14sts, sc2tog. (16sts)
Row 27: Sc2tog, sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog. (14sts)
Row 28: Sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog. (12sts)
Sc around the entire outer edge of the tummy panel, with a sc in the edge of each row, and placing 2sts in the corners to help round them. (84sts) >Design Note: There doesn’t need to be exactly 84sts, but the panel should be flat.
Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the tummy panel to the body.

Assembly

Muzzle: Firmly stuff and shape the muzzle, add additional stuffing as needed while stitching closed. Pictured, the muzzle is centered on the face with eyes, the top resting at approx Rnd 15, right next to the eyes, and the bottom at approx Rnd 26 of the body.

Face shot of the crochet beaver showing the muzzle and nose stitched onto the face. — **Image Description:** The muzzle and nose, with the line down from the nose, have been stitched.

Nose: Stuff and shape the nose, add additional stuffing as needed while stitching closed. With the yarn tail at the bottom of the nose, position the nose centered on the muzzle, with the top of the nose at approx Rnd 6 of the muzzle and the bottom of the nose at approx Rnd 2 on the bottom side of the muzzle. Stitch all around the nose and then use the tail to embroider a line coming down from the bottom center of the nose to between Rnd 4 and 5 at the bottom middle of the muzzle.

Face shot of the crochet beaver showing the teeth stitched on the muzzle and the line stitched onto the teeth. — **Image Description:** The teeth and the line on the teeth have been stitched.

Teeth: Center the teeth over the line coming down from the nose, with the top of the teeth between approx Rnds 4 and 5 at the bottom half of the muzzle (at the base of the embroidered line for the nose). Once the teeth are stitched to the muzzle, weave the tail invisibly through the muzzle to the top front center of the teeth, and embroider a line coming down approx 3 Rnds. Weave in the tail at the back of the teeth.
Ears: Put the bottom edges tog and press the front center of the ear towards the back so a divot is created at the front of the ear. Pictured, the ears are centered at the top of the head and stitched on either side over approx Rnds 6-14 of the head.
Tummy Panel: The tummy panel is centered with the face, with the top resting at approx Rnd 34 of the body and the bottom at approx Rnd 64.
Arms: The arms are placed at the sides of the body. They can be stitched in any desired position. The color change from Rnd 16 should be on the inside of the arms when stitched. Pictured, they reach forward and a bit downward. The top back is at approx Rnd 34 of the body and the bottom at approx Rnd 46. They are stitched across the top and then are tacked to the body a few Rnds down from the top, on the underside, to keep them resting closer to the body.

Side view of the crochet beaver during assembly showing the arm and leg pinned to the body. — **Image Description:** Side assembly view of the beaver in a sitting position.

Legs: The legs can be positioned in either a sitting or a standing position. Pictured in most images, they are sitting. Sitting Beaver: The top of the leg rests at approx Rnd 55 of the body and the bottom at approx Rnd 68. The inner portion of the leg overlaps the tummy panel just slightly. Make sure to pull the row portion of the leg up so it lies flat with the shape of the body, and before closing off, add additional stuffing to fill the top of the leg.

Assembly pictures of the beaver, front and side view, with legs in standing position. — **Image Left:** Front view of the standing beaver, pinned for stitching. **Image Right:** Side leg view of the standing beaver, pinned for stitching.

Standing Beaver: The legs rest at the sides of the body, the top of the legs at approx Rnd 59 of the body, and the inside of the legs at approx Rnd 72. Make sure to pull the row portion of the leg up so it lies flat with the shape of the body, and before closing off, add additional stuffing to fill the top of the leg.

Back view of the crochet beaver during assembly showing the tail pinned to the body.

Tail: The tail is centered and stitched at the back of the body, with the bottom of the tail at approx Rnd 69 of the body. Depending on how loose you want the tail to be, it can be left like this or also tacked to the body higher up so it rests closer to the body.

Close up of the Crochet Beaver's face with yarn skeins blurred in the background.

Eyebrows: (Optional) The eyebrows are stitched at a diagonal over the tops of the eyes. Pictured, the top of the brow is centered with the eye between Rnds 13 and 14 of the body angled to the outer center side of the eye between Rnds 16 and 17, approx 2sts away from the edge of the eye.

As always, I’d love to see your creation if you’re willing to share! Comment below or tag me on social media. You can find me on Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram (tag @jenhayescreations and use the hashtag #jenhayescreations to show off your work and have a chance to be featured), and stay tuned to find me in the future on YouTube!

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Copyright and Use Policy

This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank you!

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